Dover Street Market opens a New York outpost
New year shopping sprees came early for fashion fans in New York, with the opening of Rei Kawakubo's Dover Street Market in the Big Apple. Occupying a neoclassical building on 30th Street and Lexington Avenue, the New York iteration of the cult, multi-brand emporium has spread itself over seven floors and boasts even more curated treasures than its siblings.
Like its London and Ginza outposts, Dover Street Market New York brings together a host of creative expressions in poetic cacophony. In addition to carrying the full Comme des Garçons range, the boutique stocks a clashing mix of brands (many of which have created special collections for the store), ranging from niche favourites like Yang Li, Casely Hayford and Visvim to big names like Prada, Alexander Wang and Saint Laurent, with some fresh gems, such as Andre Walker and 1205, thrown in as well. There are several specially commissioned artworks, ranging from sound sculptures by Brooklyn artist Calx Vive to wall murals by Japanese artist Enomoto Koichi, interspersed throughout the mammoth space.
The store's unusual location on a less-trodden street in Midtown East Manhattan not only makes sense once the majestic building comes into view, but brings an alluring sense of discovery to the well-loved brand. Previously inhabited by Touro College, the building was empty for four years before the fashion company got its hands on it. The premises were completely gutted and designed by Rei Kawakubo, whose design included installing a 64 square-foot glass elevator that runs through the core of the boutique.
In addition to the reappearance of familiar features like the corrugated metal huts, vibrant use of polka dots and an outpost of the beloved Rose Bakery, Dover Street Market New York has especially amped things up with a different site-specific installation around each of the three columns that traverse the ground floor space. The research-based art practice London Fieldworks has covered one with a frenetic assemblage of wooden boxes, 'yarn bomber' Magda Sayeg has tackled another with one of her signature knitted constructions, while the third has been transformed by junk sculptor Leo Sewell with recycled objects to dizzying visual effect.
Despite the fact that Kawakubo carefully oversaw most details of the boutique, many of the store's inhabitants, including Prada, Sacai, Rick Owens and eyewear brand Moscot, have been given creative license to design their own retail space, resulting in a colourful pastiche of aesthetics. In a released statement, the elusive Kawakubo said, 'I want[ed] to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos; the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision.'
Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Garçons and husband to the enigmatic designer added, 'The whole idea behind Dover Street Market is to provide a new, stimulating and fun shopping experience. For New York, we wanted to create a contrasting feeling to the complex vibrant city that is New York. Kawakubo's main idea was to do the opposite of sophistication; a humble rendering of the respect for nature by using only one material: wood.'
The debut of Dover Street Market New York coincides with the reopening of Comme des Garçons' Chelsea boutique, which has been refurbished for the first time since it opened in 1999. The iconic, undulating space has been covered with gold. With furniture, light shades designed by Beirut's .PSLAB and two sculptural installations by artist Kohei Nawa all realised in the auspicious hue, the space is truly a sight to behold.
A neoclassical New York building at the corner of 30th Street and Lexington Avenue has been remodeled for Rei Kawakubo's latest concept store. Previously inhabited by Touro College, the building was empty for four years before the fashion company got its hands on it
Despite the fact that Kawakubo carefully oversaw most details of the boutique, many of the store's inhabitants, including Prada, Sacai, Rick Owens and eyewear brand Moscot, have been given creative license to design their own retail space, resulting in a colourful pastiche of aesthetics.
Prada's concept space has been developed around the store's glass elevator shaft and will be an ever-changing installation in itself. For the opening, special mannequins have been exclusively painted by Gabriel Specter, one of the mural artists involved in the decoration of Prada's S/S 2014 Milan show space
ADDRESS
Dover Street Market New York, 160 Lexington Avenue at 30th Street, New York
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
First look – Bottega Veneta and Flos release a special edition of the Model 600
Gino Sarfatti’s fan favourite from 1966 is born again with Bottega Veneta’s signature treatments gracing its leather base
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
We stepped inside the Stedelijk Museum's newest addition in Amsterdam
Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum has unveiled its latest addition, the brand-new Don Quixote Sculpture Hall by Paul Cournet of Rotterdam creative agency Cloud
By Yoko Choy Published
-
On a sloped Los Angeles site, a cascade of green 'boxes' offers inside outside living
UnStack, a house by FreelandBuck, is a cascading series of bright green volumes, with mountain views
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Olfactory Art Keller: the New York gallery exhibiting the smell of vintage perfume, blossoming lilacs and last night’s shame
Olfactory Art Keller is a Manhattan-based gallery space dedicated to exhibiting scent as art. Founder Dr Andreas Keller speaks with Lara Johnson-Wheeler about the project, which doesn’t shy away from the ‘unpleasant’
By Lara Johnson-Wheeler Published
-
Why the slipper is set to be this season’s definitive men’s shoe
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss unpacks the rise of the men’s slipper, which looks set to become this season’s most ubiquitous shoe. Plus, five styles to channel the slipper’s louche elegance in your own wardrobe
By Jack Moss Published
-
Kohler plunges into the world of wellness with an ice bath for your home
Kohler has teamed up with Remedy Place to design an ice bath for the home, marking the brand’s first move into the wellness space
By Kelsey Mulvey Published
-
‘Remembering without nostalgia’: Giorgio Armani presents his S/S 2025 collection in New York
Giorgio Armani returned to New York for his S/S 2025 show, which coincided with the opening of a flagship boutique on Madison Avenue
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
Discothèque perfumes evoke the scent of Tokyo in the year 2000
As Discothèque gets ready to launch its first perfume collection, Mary Cleary catches up with the brand’s founders
By Mary Cleary Published
-
The Wallpaper* S/S 2025 trend report: ‘A rejection of the derivative and the expected’
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss unpacks five trends and takeaways from the S/S 2025 shows, which paid ode to individual style and transformed the everyday
By Jack Moss Published
-
A guide to the best fashion stores London has to offer
Wallpaper* picks the must-visit London fashion stores – from big-name boutiques and classic department stores to the best in vintage, alongside the sleek and experimental
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Fashion’s favourite bookstore, Climax, opens a ‘sexy, angry’ New York outpost
Wallpaper* catches up with Isabella Burley, founder of Climax, as she inaugurates a New York outpost of the cult bookstore and showcases a playful new collaboration with fashion label Chopova Lowena
By Mary Cleary Published