The trend for in-your-face bras and OTT branding has given simple nude underwear a rather bad rep of late. However, just as outerwear has embraced a more minimalist approach, lingerie has also undergone a similar undressing. Superfluous frills, trims, bows and lace have been shunned by a new breed of contemporary labels, whose combined focus lies in paring-back the intimates market.
After cutting her teeth at Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez in New York, Jo Rossell founded her London-based line in 2015 with the intention of producing modern, underwire-free cotton and silk underwear. Her approach is dominated by clever panelling for a contoured fit, rather than wires and synthetic elastane. ‘The natural stretch cotton I use is more commonly used in ready-to-wear than lingerie,’ she explains. ‘Combined with a geometric cut and construction, this offers the same amount of support as a conventional underwire bra, giving the wearer a sense of freedom.’
Also following suit is fellow London label Marieyat, which uses a nostalgic rib to fashion its cool cut-out separates, and Danish brand Baserange, which similarly champion a sporty spin on barely-there bras and briefs.
As originally featured in the November 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*212)
’Bra’, £85, by Rossell England
Briefs, £34, by Marieyat
-
These vibrant vases are made from discarded flip flopsSerena Confalonieri’s Jambo collection, in collaboration with Ocean Soles, debuts at Rossana Orlandi during Milan Design Week
-
Artist Qualeasha Wood explores the digital glitch to weave stories of the Black female experienceIn ‘Malware’, her new London exhibition at Pippy Houldsworth Gallery, the American artist’s tapestries, tuftings and videos delve into the world of internet malfunction
-
Milan Design Week: Afra and Tobia Scarpa’s monastic marvel of a chair returns to lifeMolteni & C’s reissue of the ‘Monk’ chair has us worshipping at the altar of its designers, Afra and Tobia Scarpa
