Material girls: needles and thread are tools of rebellion at Turner Contemporary
For the landmark 'Entangled: Threads and Making' exhibition at Turner Contemporary, Karen Wright played the double-role of curator, and 'international artist matchmaker'. She brought together a diverse group of over 40 female artists, many of whom desccended on the seaside resort of Margate for the weeks surrounding the exhibition's opening. Together, they occupied the bars and cafes once frequented by the likes of JMW Turner, and more recently, Tracey Emin. 'One evening, when they had all left, I went to the local pub on my own,' Wright explains, 'and the barman asked where all my interesting friends had gone. It was quite lonely!'
The artistic community Wright has helped foster is clearly felt when entering the David Chipperfield-designed museum, where friendliness abounds. Works in the entrance and upstairs loby (The Three Graces by Kashif Nadim Chaudry, and Knot Project by Anna Ray, both from 2016) have been handmade by local volunteers. What's more, no less than three school groups were wandering around the small museum when Wallpaper* visited, which made for a noisy, but intensely encouraging trip.
Wright's show focuses on textiles in post-1940s female art. On paper, it doesn't seem like a groundbreaking concept. After all, women have been using a needle and thread since they were invented. On looking round, the curation's bravery and progressive attitude jumps off the walls. But it has not been met without controversy. Margate local (and Turner Contemporary benefactor) Emin is notably absent from the group, which has been a particular sticking point for some critics, Wright explains. 'She's an artist who has had so much coverage already. This exhibition was about bringing together more up and coming names.'
Artists like Anna Ray, Karla Black and Laura Ford, whose 2012 Penguins sculptures provide another political texture to the already statement-making exhibition. Huddled in the back corner of the gallery, Ford describes these shifty looking characters as 'sculptures dressed up as animals which are dressed up as people'. In their many guises, they comment on global warming, youth culture and materiality, with a rare sense of humour.
This focus on emerging talent doesn't mean the exhibition lacks 'big ticket' works. Anni Albers' structural, taughtly-woven silk tapestry (designed in 1926) stands as an important juxtaposition to its later counterparts, like Ann Cathrin November Høibo's Untitled (Diptych) created specifically for the show, where threads colourfully explode, pull and unravel from their constraints. Elsewhere, Louise Bourgeois' profound bra clasp sculpture promises to be the smallest object that will ever halt you in your tracks.
It feels like an over-used phrase at the moment, but this exhibition couldn't have come at a better time. Despite this, Wright has been persuing the exhibition in various forms for the best part of a decade. 'Let's be honest, women have always had a bad deal, and there's no way I could have planned this to happen when it did,' she reasons. But as hand-knitted pink pussy hats dance across the world's major cities, the needle and thread are becoming tools of rebellion, reimagined as contemporary symbols of female unity; an idea solidified by Wright's international, welcoming and progressive showcase.
INFORMATION
’Entangled: Threads and Making’ is on view until 7 May. For more information visit the Turner Contemporary website
ADDRESS
Turner Contemporary
Rendezvous
Margate
Kent CT9 1HG
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Elly Parsons is the Digital Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees Wallpaper.com and its social platforms. She has been with the brand since 2015 in various roles, spending time as digital writer – specialising in art, technology and contemporary culture – and as deputy digital editor. She was shortlisted for a PPA Award in 2017, has written extensively for many publications, and has contributed to three books. She is a guest lecturer in digital journalism at Goldsmiths University, London, where she also holds a masters degree in creative writing. Now, her main areas of expertise include content strategy, audience engagement, and social media.
-
Audi launches AUDI, a China-only sub-brand, with a handsome new EV concept
The AUDI E previews a new range of China-specific electric vehicles from the German carmaker’s new local sub-brand
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Izza Marrakech: A new riad where art and bohemian luxury meet
Honouring the late Bill Willis’ hedonistic style, Izza Marrakech fuses traditional Moroccan craftsmanship with the best of contemporary art
By Ty Gaskins Published
-
Clocking on: the bedside analogue timepieces that won’t alarm your aesthetic
We track down the only tick-tocks that matter, nine traditional alarm clocks that tell the time with minimum fuss and maximum visual impact
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Meet Kenia Almaraz Murillo, the artist rethinking weaving
Kenia Almaraz Murillo draws on the new and the traditional in her exhibition 'Andean Cosmovision' at London's Waddington Custot
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Louise Bourgeois’ work is in conversation with ancient art in Rome
Galleria Borghese's 'Louise Bourgeois: Unconscious Memories' is its first exhibition dedicated to a contemporary female artist and the first devoted to Bourgeois in Rome
By Hili Perlson Published
-
Don’t miss: ‘The Mother & The Weaver’ dissects the complexity of motherhood
‘The Mother & The Weaver’ at the Foundling Museum, London, looks at the complex role of the mother in art from the Ursula Hauser Collection
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Faith Ringgold on capturing the complexity of the American experience: ‘It takes courage to be free’
We interview Faith Ringgold, whose major retrospective exhibition ‘American People’ runs until 27 November at the de Young Musuem, San Francisco
By Aindrea Emelife Published
-
Textile artists: the pioneers of a new material world
These contemporary textile artists are weaving together the rich tapestry of fibre art in new ways
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith Last updated
-
A woman’s right to pleasure: the LA exhibition rewriting the history of female sexuality
Artists including Nan Goldin, Tracey Emin and Reka Nyari take part in ‘BlackBook Presents: A Woman’s Right to Pleasure’ at Sotheby’s LA
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Riotous colour, terrific textiles: Sheila Hicks: ‘Off Grid’ at The Hepworth Wakefield
Fiber art icon Sheila Hicks’ much-anticipated show at The Hepworth Wakefield is a career-spanning celebration of voluminous form and vibrant colour
By Jessica Klingelfuss Last updated
-
Jenny Holzer curates Louise Bourgeois: ‘She was infinite’
The inimitable work of Louise Bourgeois is seen through the eyes of Jenny Holzer in this potent meeting of minds at Kunstmuseum Basel
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published