Dark, glamorous and hedonistic: a photography book captures New York in the 1990s

New York: High Life, Low Life, by Dafydd Jones, goes behind the scenes of New York society

black and white images of people at parties
Dachshunds fighting over doggy canapés. Iris Love (holding Just Desserts) and Brooke Astor (holding Dolly Astor) at a dachshund party, Barbetta restaurant, 1990
(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

‘I think it is quite a dark impression of New York as it was,’ says photographer Dafydd Jones, who spent the 1990s capturing the city’s most exclusive parties. ‘It is an insight into who was considered important at fashion shows, benefits and parties.’

black and white images of people at parties

Ivana Trump, Fashion Group couture show, The Plaza Hotel, 1990 (in the middle of her divorce from Donald Trump)

(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

Jones, who had previously photographed Oxford and London’s upper class, was hired by Vanity Fair magazine to attend New York society’s hottest parties, capturing celebrities including Oprah Winfrey, Joan Rivers, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp, President (then Senator) Joe Biden, Leona Helmsley, Brooke Astor, Donald and Ivana Trump, Anna Wintour, Naomi Campbell, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Robert Mapplethorpe and Michael Milken.

black and white images of people at parties

Martha Reed with Champagne twizzle stick to remove bubbles. Spanish gold medal Gala. Pierre Hotel. New York November 1989

(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

‘In England, I’d become too well-known as a Tatler photographer. It was wonderful to be invisible again.’ Jones adds: ‘I hope readers may laugh, be moved and maybe a bit scared. My process for choosing the images starts in the darkroom. The photography book is an edited selection of images from a box of prints I made last year. So what the readers are seeing are reproductions of darkroom prints. Often I’m thinking of the light and shade and tones and printing with rich blacks and not considering the subject matter.’

black and white images of people at parties

Front row applauding Carolyne Roehm’s spring collection. Jerry Zipkin, Nan Kempner, Annette Reed, Judy Peabody, Henry Kravis, Chessy Rayner, Mica Ertegun, Pat Buckley. Plaza Hotel, 1989

(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

For Graydon Carter, New York in the 1990s was a world ablaze with ambition and glamour. ‘This New York was the one of new money trying to catch the attention of old money and of Wall Street vampires who raided the accounts of widows and orphans while their wives dined on quenelle and salads (dressing on the side) at places like La Grenouille and Le Cirque.’

New York: High Life, Low Life is published by ACC Art Books and is available to buy at Amazon, £27.99

black and white images of people at parties

Maria Paterno Castello di San Giuliano, Princess Asaea Beatrice Reyna di Savoia, Miss Hikari Ohta and the maid, Chatting in the ladies powder room during the International Debutante Ball. Plaza Hotel. New York. 29 December 1993

(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

black and white images of people at parties

Paul Newman, Natasha Richardson and Lauren Bacall

(Image credit: © Dafydd Jones)

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels. 

Read more
David Bailey Eighties
Era-defining photographer David Bailey guides us through the 1980s in a new tome not short of shoulder pads and lycra
black and white images of people on a television set
Distracting decadence: how Silvio Berlusconi’s legacy shaped Italian TV
Latina women in car
‘American Photography’: centuries-spanning show reveals timely truths
aretha franklin fixing her hair
75 years of Atlantic Records captured in new photo book
grayson perry
A portrait of the artist: Sotheby’s puts Grayson Perry in the spotlight
Benidorm, Spain
‘I explored Benidorm with an open mind’: the famous Spanish seaside town is captured in a new photo book
Latest in Photography
Ewen Spencer, Twice as Nice, The End, London, 1999, Courtesy the artist. photography exhibition
From counter-culture to Northern Soul, these photos chart an intimate history of working-class Britain
Juno Calypso, Chicken Dogs 2015, Archival Pigmant
This fun and free-spirited photography exhibition offers a chromatic view on the world
plane images
Flights of fancy: a colourful new photography book documents our obsession with aviation
Latina women in car
‘American Photography’: centuries-spanning show reveals timely truths
David Bailey Eighties
Era-defining photographer David Bailey guides us through the 1980s in a new tome not short of shoulder pads and lycra
black and white men hugging
Discover Rotimi Fani-Kayode's fluid photographs of the queer male body, on show in London
Latest in Feature
the toteme store in China by herzog & de meuron
Bold, geometric minimalism rules at Toteme’s new store by Herzog & de Meuron in China
zaha hadid architects future projects
The upcoming Zaha Hadid Architects projects set to transform the horizon
black and white image of kitchen
‘La Cocina’: the kitchen is a chaotic melting pot of contemporary culture in Alonso Ruizpalacios’ new film
lean lui guide to hong kong
A local’s guide to Hong Kong, by photographer Lean Lui
people at watch show
What can we expect from Watches and Wonders 2025?
Perfume Genius Glory album artwork
Inside the visual universe of Perfume Genius