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    By Jessica Klingelfuss
    published 15 May 2023
    in Features

    Blum

    Art Trail

    Museums Tour

    Switzerland’s ultimate art trail: take our tour

    From Basel to Zurich, these major cultural draws, spanning art, design and photography, are on our Swiss don’t-miss list
    IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

    From snow-capped mountains to turquoise glaciers and jewel-like lakes, it’s easy to be seduced by the spectacle that is Switzerland’s dazzling natural scenery. But as the saying goes: beauty is more than skin deep. And this adage certainly holds true for the small but perfectly formed country, where an art scene has formed to rival the major ‘conventional’ cultural capitals of the world, and where, as  Switzerland Tourism proudly declares, it’s possible to have ‘breakfast in town, lunch at 3,000 metres above sea level, and visit an art exhibition in the evening’. Here, we take a tour of an outstanding group of world-class art museums – collectively known as the Art Museums of Switzerland – that are raising the Alpine country’s cultural cachet.

    Basel
    Lake Geneva 
    Lugano
    Bern
    Zurich Region

    BASEL

    Basel is a city passionately devoted to art, culture and architecture, packing some 40 museums and numerous buildings designed by star architects into its relatively compact footprint. One example is the Fondation Beyeler, a Renzo Piano creation whose permanent collection spans Josef Albers and Leonor Antunes to Rachel Whiteread and Jordan Wolfson. Then there’s Mario Botta’s pink-sandstone building for the Museum Tinguely, an interdisciplinary art hub with a comprehensive exhibition programme and which also houses the world’s largest collection of its namesake, Swiss kinetic sculptor Jean Tinguely. Elsewhere at the three locations of Kunstmuseum Basel – which famously sparked a protest in the 1960s among Baseler youth who were emphatic on making a pair of Picassos a permanent acquisition – museum-goers can explore art from as early as the 15th century.

    Kunstmuseum Basel

    Where to eat
    At Zum Wilde Maa, everything from the furnishings to the regional ingredients and wine list is thoughtfully curated.
     

    Where to stay
    The rooms in the stylish hotel Teufelhof have been conceived as habitable works of art. The hotel boasts its own theatre, brewery as well as well-stocked wine cellar.

    Restaurant Zum Wilde Maa
    Der Teufelhof Basel

    Lake Geneva

    Scenic from every angle, Lake Geneva’s crescent-shaped shoreline – arcing on the Swiss side from Geneva through Lausanne and Montreaux – has become fertile grounds for creatives. Situated in a former physics laboratory in Geneva’s Plainpalais neighbourhood, MAMCO (Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain) offers a consistently thought-provoking view of art from the 1960s onwards. On the north bank of Lake Geneva, meanwhile, the budding Plateforme 10 –  a 25,000 sq m arts district taking shape next to Lausanne’s central station – brings together three institutions: the Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts (MCBA), in a concrete monolith designed by Barcelona firm Barozzi Veiga; and the Photo Elysée and Musée Cantonal de Design et d'Arts Appliqués Contemporains (mudac), Which was opened in June 2022 in a new building by Portuguese architects Aires Mateus.

    Above: Lake Geneva; Top: The new building that houses Photo Elysée and Mudac, Geneva, designed by Aires Mateus. (Image credit: Matthieu Gafsou)

    Where to eat
    Chef Rafael Rodriguez pulls out all the stops to spoil patrons of the Auberge de l’Abbaye de Montheron, high above Lake Geneva.

    Where to stay
    In Maison d’Igor, a boutique hotel in Morges, Igor Stravinsky found the calm and inspiration he needed to create his key work The Rite of Spring. maison-igor.ch

    Experience contemporary comforts in a superb Art Nouveau setting at the Grand Hôtel du Lac, on the shores of Lake Geneva.

     Abbaye de Montheron
    Maison d’Igor

    Lugano

    With its palm trees, cobblestone streets and Mediterranean climate, there’s little wonder that Lugano is known as Switzerland’s ‘Little Italy’. The largest city in the Italian-speaking Ticino region is also home to the Museo d’Arte della Svizzera Italiana (MASI Lugano). Established in 2015, it offers a diverse programme over its two locations – the LAC cultural centre and the historic Palazzo Reali – with upcoming exhibitions including a retrospective of 19th-century Swiss photography.

    Above: Lugano, MASI Lugano in Palazzo Reali; Top: Museo d’Arte della Svizzera Italiana (MASI Lugano). (Image credit: ©StudioPagi.CHCH-6900-Lugano)

    Where to eat
    Enjoy local culinary specialities such as luganighe sausage with polenta at the rustic grotto of La Tinèra, in the heart of the city. tineralugano.business.site

    Where to stay
    The Gabbani family runs not only a charming delicatessen in the heart of the old town, but also an ultra-modern boutique hotel a stone’s throw away. gabbani.com

    La Tinèra
    Gabbani Hotel

    Bern

    The de facto capital of Switzerland, Bern has several cultural claims to fame – among them, it is the site of the first building ever to be wrapped entirely by Christo, while the historic old town with its romantic arcades was deservedly made Switzerland’s first Unesco World Heritage site. And on the city edge in the Berner countryside, visitors can find the most extensive collection of work by Swiss-born German artist Paul Klee, whose fluid style is reflected in the undulating Renzo Piano-designed steel structure of Zentrum Paul Klee.

    Above: The Zentrum Paul Klee is a museum dedicated to the artist Paul Klee, located in Bern, Switzerland and designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano (Photo by Ricardo Gomez Angel)

    Where to eat
    Promising a cosy atmosphere and boho-style interiors, Provisorium 46 is a gastronomy concept with inclusivity at its heart: it’s staffed by young people with and without disabilities.

    Where to stay
    The Hotel Innere Enge has its very own jazz room – is there a better way to end your day in Bern?

    Provisorium 46
    Hotel Innere Enge

    Zurich Region

    Zurich is Switzerland’s other capital city – of design that is. Divided over two sites (Ausstellungsstrasse and Toni-Areal) as well as the Pavillon Le Corbusier, the Museum für Gestaltung Zürich boasts a half million-strong collection focusing on the history of design, architecture and visual communication. The Kunsthaus Zürich, meanwhile, not only houses one of the largest art collections in Switzerland – with works spanning from the 13th century to the present day – it is also now the largest art museum in the country courtesy of a recently opened extension by David Chipperfield Architects. Elsewhere, a short train ride from Zurich’s city centre to Winterthur, the Fotozentrum keeps the world in focus by way of two independent institutions: the Fotostiftung Schweiz (exploring a broad range of artistic and cultural forms of photography) and the Fotomuseum Winterthur (dedicated to the acquisition and preservation of photographic works).  

    Above: Kunsthaus Zürich. (Image credit: Switzerland Tourism/Oliver Baer); Top: Fotomuseum Winterthur. (Image credit: Switzerland Tourism/Oliver Baer)

    Where to eat
    Zurich’s Kronenhalle is an institution beyond compare, where artists, actors, authors and musicians used to gather (and occasionally used to pay with artworks). The walls at this century-old restaurant are today adorned with works by Chagall, Matisse, Miró and Picasso, as well as letters from Dürrenmatt and Joyce.

    Where to stay
    The owner of five-star hotel The Dolder Grand has made part of his extensive private art collection open to the public in the hotel. Meanwhile, arty furniture and design-led interiors awaits guests at the Hotel Greulich in Zurich’s hip Langstrasse district.

    Kronenhalle Restaurant 
    The Dolder Grand hotel

    Getting to Switzerland
    Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) connects Switzerland to more than 100 destinations in over 50 countries worldwide. The airline – which runs one of the most carbon-efficient aircraft fleets in Europe – is part of the Lufthansa Group and a member of the Star Alliance.

    Transport
    Another of Switzerland’s crown jewels is its flawlessly integrated rail and public transport network – the most tightly knit in the world and providing sustainable travel options year-round. Travelling from city to city is a seamless experience with the Swiss Travel Pass (available for three, four, six, eight or 15 days). The all-in-one ticket offers non-residents the utmost flexibility and includes unlimited travel across Switzerland by public transport, including train, bus and boat.

    Accommodation 
    From Alpine chalets to luxury resorts, country inns to grand European hotels, Switzerland’s accommodation offerings are as diverse as its scenery. Looking for a boutique hotel by the lake with a solarium, or a retreat in the mountains with a Roman-Irish bath? Finding the perfect place to stay is simply a click away.

    Article 2

    Design: LAYER x Benjamin Hubert

    Nodding to a passion for music, design and craftsmanship, the Beosound Balance speaker by Bang & Olufsen (Denmark) is inspired by interior objects to redefine home audio. A soft, rounded silhouette uses materials such as solid oak and knitted textiles and hides an innovative user interface and seven carefully placed speaker drivers with beam-forming technology. Listeners choose between powerful, room-filling sound for everyday listening, and directional sound for precise and immersive music experiences.

    Article 2

    Design: LAYER x Benjamin Hubert

    Nodding to a passion for music, design and craftsmanship, the Beosound Balance speaker by Bang & Olufsen (Denmark) is inspired by interior objects to redefine home audio. A soft, rounded silhouette uses materials such as solid oak and knitted textiles and hides an innovative user interface and seven carefully placed speaker drivers with beam-forming technology. Listeners choose between powerful, room-filling sound for everyday listening, and directional sound for precise and immersive music experiences.

    For more information, Visit Art Museums of Switzerland

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    Switzerland
    Jessica Klingelfuss
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