Ah tequila: a spirit which has coloured the stories – and memories – of practically every drinker… arguably in equal measures of both the spectacularly good and bad. Over the past few years, tequila – and its various agave-based buddies, such as mezcal and the lesser-known gems, raicilla and bacanora – has become more highly sought after, with a level of connoisseurship to rival the likes of Scotch or Japanese whisky.
Alongside this distinct premiumisation comes a wonderful versatility with these once humble agave spirits: from a classic Margarita, its spicy sibling the Picante, simple, satisfying shots, smoky Old Fashioneds or THE Cocktail du Jour, the Paloma, there’s now an agave spirit-based serve out there for everyone.
In fact, tequila brands are really seizing every opportunity to help get the consumer into the swing of things (there's even a National Tequila Day). Recently, Patrón launched the hugely entertaining Paloma Ventana pop-up in Covent Garden: an activation in partnership with two Michelin-starred chef, Tom Sellers, where Patrón reposado Paloma cocktails and Mexican-inspired small plate bites were passed through a tiny velvet-curtained window by a mysteriously skilful hand to those passing by, along with tokens to redeem another delicious cocktail at handful of selected bars around London, including Satan’s Whiskers, Aqua Nueva, Side Hustle at NoMad and Café Pacifico (see below).
All this got me thinking, with so much happening around this truly wonderful spirit, where abouts should we all be heading to enjoy it? So, here’s my pick of some of London’s best tequila outlets. Salud!
Paloma Café
An absolute agave gem in every sense of the word, Paloma Café, evokes the imagery and panache of a simple, understated but perfectly formed, 1950s Mexican Cantina.
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You’ll find a treasure trove of everything agave behind the bar, from craft tequila brands of all kind (blanco, through to extra anejo, the oak-matured style) to more difficult-to-find raicilla and mezcals which will change your perception about the spirit for the better. As expected, the house Paloma doesn’t disappoint, nor do the small bowls of Anrojitos – or ‘Little Whimsies’ which accompany each cocktail: Mexican snacks with a real twist! I won’t spoil the surprise here, so get yourself over to Shoreditch to see what all the fuss is about.
79 Wentworth St, Shoreditch, E1 7TD palomacafe.co.uk
Kol Mezcaleria
Those of you who know a thing or two about Mexican cuisine will no doubt be familiar with Kol and its peerless Michelin-starred marriage of the very best of Mexican street food and seasonal British produce. The restaurant’s basement also houses a topflight, stand-alone agave bar too, with the cocktails mirroring the inventive fusion of the kitchen. Think sorrel and hops effortlessly blending with warming, smoky Leyenda cupreata mezcal, or a Martini mixed with Volcan blanco tequila, pine distillate and cucumber and you’ll get the picture at the level of skill on offer here.
Lower Ground Floor, 9 Seymour St, London W1H 7BA kolrestaurant.com
Café Pacifico
The OG when it comes to Mexican good times in the city, Café Pacifico has been bringing its unique good times and charm to the capital since 1982 and feels more than ready to keep supplying them for another few decades yet. It was founded by the late Tomas Estes, a remarkable guru and authority in the world of tequila, whose (recently reprinted) book, ‘The Tequila Ambassador’ has become an essential read for anyone looking to further their knowledge of the world of agave spirits. If you’re after a quiet, post-work, wind-down cocktail, Pacifico is definitely NOT the place: however, if you require a stirring of the soul and senses in only the way that a well-made Tommy’s Margarita and raucous laughter can provide, then there’s really no where else like it.
5 Langley St, London WC2H 9JA café-pacifico.com
La Bodega Negra Café
A tale of two locations, very much with the same ethos, but done differently, Bodega Negra’s restaurant offers a very up-market twist on traditional Mexican street food, (think sea bass ceviche, prawn and lobster tamal and some terrific tacos), served in an altogether sultry environment. Its upstairs café is the opposite: bright and vibrant, it also possesses one of the most comprehensive agave spirits lists I’ve seen in ages: nearly 50 different tequilas grace the menu: everything from bright, fresh blancos such as El Rayo and Ocho, to a sublimely aged Patrón Anejo and Tapatio’s Excellencia Gran Reserva, and this is before we come onto the separate mezcal pages containing another 20+ spirits. There are also flights of both spirits to try, allowing you to become fully immersed in the culture and flavour of the spirit.
16 Moor St, London W1D 5AP bodeganegracafe.com
Decimo – The Standard
Heading up to the vibrant Kings Cross culinary quarter and you’ll come across the Standard hotel, which is home to Decimo: the playful domain of Michelin-starred chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, whose passion is the fusion of his family’s Spanish cuisine with a love for all things Mexico. The food menu is a colourful tapestry of bold dishes including Gambas Rojas, Birria Short Rib and smaller bites, nestling alongside a flight of four different mezcals, designed to showcase the diversity of agave styles, (such as Espadin and Tobala) and several seasonally influenced mezcal cocktails.
10 Argyle Street, London WC1H 8EG decimo.london
Doña
Sticking with the mezcal theme and any aficionado of this lovably smoky delight needs to head on over to Stoke Newington for a visit to Doña, a fabulously vibey bar which is truly dedicated to the spirit. Doña was established by Thea Cumming and Lucia Massey, the brains behind London Mezcal Week and the duo seamlessly fuse mezcal into classic cocktails such as the Negroni, as well as provide a colourful backdrop of nightly live musicians, DJs and performers. Like the drink they’re clearly so dedicated to, it’s a spirited, playful and hugely fun-filled ride-of-a-night-out.
92 Stoke Newington High Street, London, N16 7NY bardonalondon.com
Hacha Agaveria
The South London sibling of the outstanding original Hacha in Dalston, which has regularly graced Best Bar lists internationally. Hacha Brixton is a wonderfully light and airy space above the bustling indoor market, with a beautifully laid out lounge feel. The 25-strong list of spirits is a love letter to everything agave including raicilla and bacanora and the addition of detailed, value-for-money tequila and mezcal flights and a bottle shop, selling its signature cocktails in ready to serve form, make Hacha a proper must-visit on your path to tequila heaven.
12-14 Market Row, Brixton SW9 8LD hachabar.com
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