30 years of Nobu: chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the trials and tribulations of a culinary empire

Known as the ‘Cod-Father’ to some and a master chef to many, Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa took the world by storm with his fusion of Japanese flavours with a Peruvian influence, capturing the hearts (and taste buds) of a global audience. It has now been 30 years since the opening of the first Nobu restaurant located in Tribeca, New York, and the business has since expanded into 50 restaurants and 27 hotels worldwide (with Matsuhisa noted as a ‘game-changer’ by Wallpaper* along the way). To celebrate Nobu’s Pearl anniversary, Matsuhisa has carefully crafted a delicious omakase menu and dinner to be held at the Nobu Hotel in London’s Shoreditch, alongside the showcasing of an art installation by David Speed.

Nobu celebrates 30 years of delicious dishes and hospitality

What started as a joint venture alongside Robert De Niro and Meir Teper has now expanded into a globally renowned brand dishing up Japanese classics with layers of Peruvian flair, from Nobu’s famed black cod in miso to yellowtail sashimi jalapeño, and tempura eel.

Although his locations are favourites of Hollywood’s elite, when Matsuhisa reflects back on his proudest moment in his trailblazing career, he shares a treasured anecdote, telling Wallpaper*, ‘My mother passed away a few years ago. In 1989, I invited her to visit my very first restaurant in Los Angeles (Matsuhisa) and I was able to cook for her. I’ve cooked for a lot of celebrities and famous people, but this was the most special guest for me. This was the most memorable.’

For the chef, family is the source of his rigour and resilience, especially during mentally challenging times of his career. ‘The biggest challenge [I faced] was actually before Nobu. It was when I opened my first restaurant in Alaska, and it burned down 15 days after its grand opening,’ Matsuhisa says. ‘It is my lowest point. I was in complete despair and even contemplated the worst because of the situation I was in. What pushed me through these darkest moments was the thought of my family. They supported me throughout my hardships and that’s why I’m here today.

‘I learned to have patience and to never give up. I always try to be at the front, even by one millimetre, because if I stop trying, then why keep the business?’

To mark three decades of Nobu, artist David Speed was commissioned to create an installation of the chef’s hands making sushi, lit up in neon lights.

Artistry inspires Matsuhisa, which is evident within his cookery, and the interior design of each restaurant and hotel, and when the first Nobu opened in 1994, he requested David Rockwell for the interiors, previously telling Wallpaper*, ‘I explained to David the importance of the flow of the kitchen and the connection between the kitchen and the sushi bar. He understood both what I wanted and my style of cooking, and was able to translate my vision into a beautiful restaurant.

‘Our concept has always been to provide our guests with good food using quality ingredients, with exceptional service in a beautifully designed and welcoming space,’ he continues. ‘We want the space to mirror our dishes – clean and simple, not complicated.’

Looking forward to the next 30 years of success, Nobu will continue to expand with new restaurants and hotel openings in Toronto, New Orleans, DeNang, Bangkok, and Rome.

Matsuhisa is not averse to stepping out of the comfort of his kitchen, having dabbled in the world of acting, and played small roles in a handful of films. ‘I like the arts. Artistry inspires me. When I have time, I would like to paint,’ he says. While yielding a paint brush may be yet another string to add to his bow, Matsuhisa has always had one mission: ‘I always wanted to be a sushi chef and travel the world. Personally, I want to continue to mentor and educate the next generation of chefs.’

The special omakase menu for Nobu Restaurant’s 30th anniversary is being held at Nobu Hotel London Shoreditch on 14 June 2024, noburestaurants.com