Tuck into Ruinart and Silo’s new zero-waste supper series in London

‘Welcome to Silo, located in this slice of paradise known as Hackney Wick,’ joked the restaurant’s founder Doug McMaster during the delicious preview of the new Ruinart x Silo: Savoir (Re)Faire Supper Series. Despite his gentle dig at Silo’s north London location, its home in a lofty white post-industrial building is actually a rather eye-catching site, overlooking surrounding canals and nestled above a popular pizza bar and brewery.

Ruinart x Silo: Savoir (Re)Faire Supper Series

Silo bills itself as the world’s first zero-waste restaurant, and the London location, opened in 2019, lures in daring foodies and eco-conscious diners alike. Now, further responding to the impact of climate change, Silo has partnered with Maison Ruinart, the luxury champagne house first established in 1729, to create a distinct supper series, with a menu adapted each month to suit what is in season.

The gastronomic experience is also centred around the creation of Ruinart Blanc Singulier. This marks the maison’s transition from traditional savoir-faire to ‘Savoir Re-Faire’, a (re)crafting of new aromatic profiles of chardonnay and alternative winemaking practices for its new Blanc Singulier cuvée.

The menu itself offers experimental cuisine, and is intended to be 75 per cent plant-based, with the inclusion of meat being carefully considered. Tuck into Silo’s own ‘Quaver’, crafted from a sticky sweet vegetable treacle and goats’ cheese, which melts on the tongue; Smoked Pink Fir potato, chive, and umami beurre blanc; and Fosse Meadow chicken with caramelised buttermilk and leek scrapes.

In a kitchen with no bin, and embracing an ethos to reduce waste as much as possible, recipe testing can get experimental, McCaster tells Wallpaper*. ‘Fermentation seems to have the magical ability to transform any troublesome ingredient into something amazing. It's a lazy answer, but undeniably true.

‘Back in the day, we had the issue of “veg scraps”, which made up about 10 per cent of our [waste] and usually ended up composted. It wasn't any specific ingredient that was a nuisance, but rather the sheer volume of unusable scraps that didn't warrant individual innovation. All those scraps, however, did require a solution. Enter “the vegetable treacle”. This unique invention [results from boiling] out all the flavour and nutrients from veg scraps into a concentrated stock. The liquid is then reduced further into a wonderful and versatile umami-rich syrup. It was the combination of this vegetable syrup and fermentation that made achieving 1 per cent waste a reality.’

When fixing up a quick plate to eat, McCaster does not skimp on flavour, even when cooking for himself. Although known for dishing up squirrel kofte with black ketchup, when it comes to home cooking he can’t resist a classic bowl of noodles.

‘The secret weapon in my arsenal is what I call “the flavour bomb” – a fiery paste made with fresh turmeric, garlic, ginger, and chilies. I start by sizzling this aromatic paste with thinly sliced onions for a minute, then toss it with chunky noodles and a generous handful of fragrant herbs from my garden, like Thai basil, lemon verbena, and Vietnamese coriander. To finish it off, add crispy fried onions and a drizzle of fatty unctuous dressing.'

Silo and Ruinart share a mutual dedication to sustainable practices and a commitment to addressing the challenges of climate change. Of the natural partnership, McCaster says, ‘Together, Ruinart and Silo have created the Savoir (Re)Faire Supper Series that highlights the impact of climate change on flavours and seasonality, showcasing ingredients that are directly affected by these changes. This collaboration exemplifies the shared vision of sustainable craftsmanship and gastronomy.’

The supper series begins on Wednesday 17 July 2024 and runs monthly until mid-November. To make a reservation head to opentable.com

silolondon.com ruinart.com