Why Aesop’s B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel is a cult classic

The skincare business is booming as never before. But Aesop’s B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel, which recently celebrated its 20-year anniversary, still stands out as one of the best moisturisers there is – even in a beauty market with an unquenchable thirst for the new and the next cult product.

For those who are already fans of the gel moisturiser, why it holds up as a classic need not be explained. Anyone who hasn’t thought to try it yet should give it a whirl as part of their summertime regime. Its intensely hydrating yet mattifying effect is a tonic to heat and humidity, which can ramp up the skin’s oil production to a less-than-desirable effect. (Although, oily and acne-prone skin types should reach for its signature amber glass jar all year round).

Aesop’s B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel deserves cult classic status

The brand name Aesop is a direct reference to the ancient Greek fabulist; a wry dig at hyperbolised cosmetics marketing. In the race of the Tortoise and The Hare, Aesop is firmly in the lane of the tortoise, having built its empire over three decades on the core principles of simple, elevated design, effective product performance, and sustainable production.

The B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel was partly created as a riposte to the loud proclamations of early noughties skincare advertising, which more often than not, failed to live up to their hype. ‘At the time, within the skincare industry, the Aesop formulation represented a generational change in texture,’ says brand Founding Associate and Chief Customer Officer Suzanne Santos, recalling its 2003 launch. Santos – who still lives in Victoria, Melbourne, the Australian city in which Aesop first came to be – has nurtured the brand since 1987, all the way through to the 3.7 billion AUD acquisition by the L’Oreal group in 2023.

Despite these monumental changes, many of Aesop’s products, including the B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel, have barely altered. ‘With just two minor adjustments in the formulation since then, it has proven a timeless and consistent source of both replenishment and sensory pleasure,’ Santos adds.

The scientific secret to the product’s success is its finely balanced ratio of approximately one part panthenol (a humectant that binds water to the skin also known as Vitamin B5) to three parts stabilised Vitamin C, which is renowned for its collagen-stimulating and complexion-brightening properties. The addition of Sodium Lactate equalises wonky PH levels. These key ingredients are mixed with an all-natural cocktail of antioxidant-rich extracts, including aloe, chamomile, and lavender.

‘Once applied, the panthenol element converts into pantothenic acid (or Vitamin B5), while magnesium ascorbyl phosphate becomes ascorbic acid (Vitamin C),’ explains Samy Hamada, Aesop’s director of research and development, who worked on the moisturiser for three years before it went on sale. ‘More broadly, B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel embodies Aesop’s rigorous approach to product development.’

The texture of the gel is luxuriously dense and nourishing and can be used at any time of the day or night. Although the product is almost honey-like in both texture and colour, don’t be fooled by its syrupy appearance. Once warmed between your palms and massaged into freshly washed skin (about a half teaspoon-sized amount of the moisturiser is best) it has a slightly cooling effect, before absorbing in double quick time, eliminating excess shine and leaving not a trace of cloying stickiness in its wake.

Aesop B Triple C Facial Balancing Gel, £97 at aesop.com.