Chanel’s Grasse fields offer a glimpse behind the perfume-making scenes
With the beginning of the May harvest, Chanel’s Grasse fields in southern France reveal the secret of the house’s perfumes
From Chanel No5 to Gabrielle Chanel to No19, Chanel perfumes are some of the most widely known on the planet. But what makes them special?
One essential, and little-known aspect, is the way they are made. Since 1987, the brand has worked with the largest flower producer in Grasse, the Mul family, to control every aspect of its fragrance production, ensuring that quality is never compromised in the creation of Chanel perfumes.
The history of perfumery in Grasse goes back to the 17th century, when it became popular to use the fragrant ingredients that thrived in the region’s rich soil for perfuming the leather gloves, boots and coachwork commonly produced in the area.
Gradually, fields of rose, mimosa, tuberose, orange blossom, lavender and violet spread throughout the Côte d'Azur. By 1921, when perfumer Ernest Beaux was designing No 5, it seemed only natural that the perfume’s main ingredient – jasmine – was sourced from the region.
Chanel’s fields in Grasse
Over the course of the 20th century, however, developers have put the future of Grasse flowers, particularly jasmine, at risk by buying up land and pushing out farmers who have been there for generations. In an effort to combat the destruction of these fields, Chanel purchased 20 hectares farmed by Joseph Mul, whose family has worked the land since 1840.
The ongoing partnership between Chanel and the Mul family means that the traditions of the region are safeguarded, and it also gives Chanel complete command over its fragrance formulations. Says in-house perfumer Oliver Poldge: ‘We are the guardians of Chanel formulas and we must make every effort to maintain absolute control over our ingredients.’
Spring is especially busy in the Chanel fields, when for three weeks only, the precious May rose is ready to harvest (fans of rose perfumes, take note). Early every morning a team of farmers go out and fill their burlap bags with the newly harvested flowers.
The flowers are then rushed to the extraction plant to be weighed before they wilt in the heat. Once weighed, they are immersed in three consecutive baths of intense solvent and distilled down to their absolute, the final concentrate used to create the fragrances that you purchase at the store.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
It is an intensive and laborious process, one that, when you know about it, makes you more appreciative than ever to be wearing a Chanel perfume.
Mary Cleary is a writer based in London and New York. Previously beauty & grooming editor at Wallpaper*, she is now a contributing editor, alongside writing for various publications on all aspects of culture.
-
Mexican designers show their metal at Gallery Collectional, Dubai
‘Unearthing’ at Dubai’s Gallery Collectional sees Ewe Studio designers Manu Bañó and Héctor Esrawe celebrate Mexican craftsmanship with contemporary forms
By Rebecca Anne Proctor Published
-
At The Manner, New York has a highly fashionable new living room
The Manner, a new hopsitality experience by Standard International in the heart of SoHo, triples up as a hotel, private residence, and members’ club
By Hannah Walhout Published
-
First look – Bottega Veneta and Flos release a special edition of the Model 600
Gino Sarfatti’s fan favourite from 1966 is born again with Bottega Veneta’s signature treatments gracing its leather base
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi almost become lovers in Luca Guadagnino’s Chanel No.5 campaign: watch the film
Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi front the new Chanel No.5 campaign in a film directed by Luca Guadagnino and soundtracked by Daft Punk
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
The breathtaking runway sets of S/S 2025, from beanbag animals to a twisted living room
Wallpaper* picks the best runway sets and show spaces of fashion month, which featured Bottega Veneta’s beanbag menagerie, opulence at Saint Laurent, and artist collaborations at Acne Studios and Burberry
By Jack Moss Published
-
Why solid soap is the most pleasurable object to bathe with
Solid soap provides a tactile bathing experience like no other. Hannah Tindle explores why in the September 2024 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, with soaps by Chanel, Celine, Diptyque, and more, photographed by Sophie Gladstone
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
The best sunscreens for your face, selected by the Wallpaper* beauty editors
This list of the best sunscreens for your face has been compiled by Wallpaper* editors Mary Cleary and Hannah Tindle, who are highly selective about SPF
By Mary Cleary Published
-
Inside Karl Lagerfeld’s extraordinary Paris library and bookshop, a haven for the bibliophile
We take an exclusive tour of Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris bookshop and library 7L, which is keeping the legendary fashion designer’s vision alive with a scintillating programme of cultural events
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Inside the Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory, where 2,000 varieties of camellia flowers bloom
The Chanel Open-Sky Lab at Gaujacq is one of the house’s five sustainable research centres for its beauty and skincare lines. Mary Cleary finds out more from the team who work there
By Mary Cleary Published
-
Chanel Beauty Summer 2024 is here, with fantasy florals and insect green nails
The Chanel Beauty Summer 2024 collection by Ammy Drammeh is inspired by a fantasy garden and worn by Lily-Rose Depp in a new campaign
By Mary Cleary Published
-
Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025: what to expect
Next week sees the arrival of Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025, with stops in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Here, our comprehensive guide to the month, from Alaïa’s arrival in New York to Alessandro Michele’s Valentino debut
By Jack Moss Last updated