Artist Stephen Doherty’s work blooms across COS’ new summertime collection
COS x Stephen Doherty, a men’s and women’s capsule, features the artist’s signature water-and-ink flower illustrations across layers of linen and silk. Here, he tells Wallpaper* more
The Manchester-based British artist Stephen Doherty is best known for his images of flowers, a fascination which began while he was artist-in-residence at Aamir Art House in Porvorim, Goa, in 2018. Titled Gratitude Blooms, the ongoing series was initially inspired by the flowers used in ritual celebrations and ‘performative acts of gratitude’ in the country, particularly local shrines. Other works explore the human body.
Launching tomorrow (8 June 2023), his works will adorn a new capsule collection from London-based label COS, created in collaboration between Doherty and the brand’s design director Karin Gustafsson. The 17-piece men’s and women’s capsule, titled ‘COS x Stephen Doherty’, is designed to capture the moment in summer when flowers are in heady bloom. ‘It celebrates the beauty of nature in its most exquisite form,’ says the brand of the collection, which features limited-edition ink-and-water floral works by Doherty.
COS collaborates with Stephen Doherty on flower-adorned collection
The collaboration began, fittingly, at London’s Chelsea Flower Show. ‘I was working at a little pop-up studio over at the show when I met some of the COS creative team,’ he explains. ‘A little later they reached out and we shared ideas on what we saw for the collection and put together an initial line-up. They’ve been really open from the beginning and so great to work with. We definitely have a shared appreciation for beauty in simplicity.’
Flowers, for him, ‘are soft yet strong. I try to capture a sense of ease and hope that emotes from them,’ he says. Of the origins of the Gratitude Flowers series, he remembers ‘being based in a small town on the top floor of an apartment block which overlooked a huge bird sanctuary and a lake’, at the Goa residency. ‘It was just after the monsoon season, everything was so lush and in bloom. I spent a lot of time in and around the many shrines and the use of flowers in those spaces is something I kept coming back to.’
Doherty’s favourite bloom is the fragile-petalled anemone flower. ‘They're so beautiful and light, I also love their association with hope and anticipation,’ he says.
The capsule collection – which ‘embraces the synergy between art and fashion,’ as COS describes – comprises effortless pieces inspired by the ease of summer, from flower-adorned shirts to diaphanous dresses and scarves. Pieces are designed to be worn in ‘endless’ iterations and are primarily crafted from lightweight layers of silk and linen. Craftsmanship is also central, from intricate beading on bandeau tops to the floral motifs reworked onto leather mules.
‘We fell in love with Stephen’s work as soon as we saw it, it is such a beautiful blend of skills and craft,’ says Gustafsson. ‘We design our collections with quality in materials, fit and details at the forefront. They should be memorable and evoke “must have” feeling, which is how we felt when first coming across Stephen’s work.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
The collection will be available from selected COS stores around the world from 8 June 2023. ‘It feels great,’ says Doherty of the collection’s international outlook. ‘I can’t wait to see people walking around in it.’
COS x Stephen Doherty capsule launches online and in select COS stores on the 8 June.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Year in review: top 10 design stories of 2024
Wallpaper* magazine's 10 most-read design stories of 2024 whisk us from fun Ikea pieces to the man who designed the Paris Olympics, and 50 years of the Rubik's Cube
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Sharon Smith's Polaroids capture 1980s New York nightlife
IDEA Books has launched a new monograph of Smith’s photographs, titled Camera Girl and edited by former editor-in-chief of LIFE magazine, Bill Shapiro
By Zoe Whitfield Published
-
A multifaceted Beverly Hills house puts the beauty of potentiality in the frame
A Beverly Hills house in Trousdale, designed by Robin Donaldson, brings big ideas to the residential scale
By Ian Volner Published
-
New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 highlights: Tory Burch to Michael Kors
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss selects the best of New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 in our ongoing round-up, from a reinvention of sportswear at Tory Burch to Michael Kors’ Italian escape
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
In Kyoto, COS celebrates the ancient art of shibori dyeing with a colour-soaked collection
‘We can’t take this type of craft for granted anymore,’ says COS design director Karin Gustafsson, who worked with Kyoto shibori artisan Kazuki Tabata on the airy summer collection. Wallpaper* heads to Japan’s former capital to find out more
By Jack Moss Published
-
COS launches Bauhaus-inspired capsule collection
By Nils Binnberg Last updated
-
The highlights from Pitti Uomo 94 in Florence
Rain was omnipresent at Pitti Uomo 94. The outerwear brand Herno celebrated its 70th year with a vast exhibition that began with an installation of a single drop of rain; MCM showed ready-to-wear and accessories in Florence for the first time in a dynamic runway presentation that featured a tropical storm. The red and blue carpeted catwalk at Paul Surridge’s debut Roberto Cavalli Menswear show was absolutely sodden, which added an eccentric mood to the otherwise fine, fresh clothes. After all, what’s summer without the threat of a downpour? Elsewhere, the classic brands who have built their heritage on modish, Made in Italy élan are having conversations about what they can learn from the advance of streetwear: it’s time for a rethink they say.
By Dal Chodha Last updated
-
Swede dreams: max out on minimalism at Arket’s debut store
By Ali Morris Last updated
-
Modern minimalism: COS meets a perfect partner in André Fu
By Catherine Shaw Last updated