Eli Russell Linnetz of cult Californian label ERL is Pitti Uomo’s next guest designer

Eli Russell Linnetz, the American designer behind cult Santa Monica-based label ERL, will be the guest designer for the 104th edition of the historic Florentine menswear fair Pitti Immagine Uomo this June. 

The S/S 2024 collection at the fair will mark the designer’s first physical fashion show for the eponymous label, having previously presented collections via photographed lookbooks. The show will take place at an as-yet-unknown location in Florence, and will also include a special project to ‘portray his crossover vision among fashion, design, and lifestyle’.

‘An eclecticism that is aware of cultural and gender references... a talent for combining commercial flair with unrestricted creativity... an original, often ironic and irreverent reinterpretation of American cliches, both eternal and modern day. These are the elements of Eli Russell Linnetz’s profile which ignited our interest and the desire to invite him to Florence,’ says Lapo Cianchi, director of communication and special events at Pitti Immagine.

Eli Russell Linnetz’s ERL to show at 104th Pitti Uomo

Indeed, California-born Linnetz – who collaborated with Lady Gaga on the stage design for her ‘Enigma’ tour, and worked with various other musical artists prior to beginning ERL – is best known for his play on American archetypes, riffing on Californian surf- and skatewear, vintage sports uniforms, and Western-wear tropes in his collections. A rapid rise to fame saw him nominated for the 2022 LVMH Prize; later that year, he collaborated with Dior’s Kim Jones on a collection titled ‘#DiorERL’ which was revealed in a blockbuster runway presentation in Venice Beach, California in May 2022 (‘Californian Couture’, the house dubbed the collection).

‘It’s with great excitement to be joining the long list of heroes that have walked these streets before me,’ says Linnetz, referencing the previous designers who have shown in the twice-yearly fair’s history, which include Raf Simons, Grace Wales Bonner and, most recently, Martine Rose, as well as Florence’s rich cultural history. ‘To stand on the shoulders of giants – the California waves swelling high into the sky then crash down upon Florence. The birthplace of Renaissance and magic – beauty born from thin air. Peer through the magic spectacles as the journey continues.’

Last month it was announced that Italian fashion house Fendi will also be showing at the fair, presenting its latest menswear collection at its new factory in Capannuccia, Tuscany, just outside of the city. The rest of the schedule for the over-half-century-old fair – running this season from 13-16 June 2023 in Florence – will likely be revealed in the coming weeks.