Los Angeles-based artist Richard Hawkins provided the backdrop to Jonathan Anderson’s A/W 2024 menswear show for Loewe, seeing the house’s heartthrob muses – from Jamie Dornan and Josh O’Connor to Omar Apollo and Manu Rios – become the subject of his delirious, erotically-infused collages, which riff on contemporary celebrity culture. Their iPhone selfies, sometimes shirtless, were combined with Hawkins’ fixations, among them Roman statuary, French decadence and the gleaming hunks from 1980s teen magazines, and beamed onto screens recalling stained-glass windows. At the end of the runway, a collection of paintings by the artist was deemed by Anderson as ‘the altar’.
Richard Hawkins x Loewe: ‘A breaking away from formality’
‘Puzzle Fold’ tote in calfskin, price on request, by Richard Hawkins x Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
Hawkins’ vibrant works appear across the A/W 2024 collection, decorating a version of Anderson’s Puzzle tote – an origami-like riff on the house’s signature handbag which folds entirely flat – or daubed across slouchy knitted jumpers and intricately caviar-beaded hoodies and sweatpants. They were woven into a collection which Anderson described as ‘a breaking away from formality and the idea of a single look’, evoking freewheeling teenage style and their poster-covered bedrooms (indeed, one layered look recalled the pile-up of clothes that might be found on the floor).
‘Modern life has become a collage,’ the Northern Irish designer continued. ‘I’m looking at this idea of iconography. It’s all about different types of validation… how we perceive ourselves to the outside world. It’s a new psychology. What that means in the future, I don’t know – but I think it can be exciting.’
This article appears in the November 2024 issue of Wallpaper* , available in print on newsstands from 10 October, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.
Loewe’s A/W 2024 menswear collection is available from mytheresa.com and loewe.com.
The A/W 2024 show space, which featured an installation by Richard Hawkins
-
This picky customer finds ‘perfection’ at Nipotina, Mayfair’s new pizza and pasta jointWallpaper* contributing editor Nick Vinson reviews Nipotina, a new Italian restaurant in London offering a carefully edited menu of traditional dishes
-
Giant cats, Madonna wigs, pints of Guinness: seven objects that tell the story of fashion in 2024These objects tell an unconventional story of style in 2024, a year when the ephemera that populated designers’ universes was as intriguing as the collections themselves
-
How 2024 brought beauty and fashion closer than ever before2024 was a year when beauty and fashion got closer than ever before, with runway moments, collaborations and key launches setting the scene for 2025 and beyond
-
Loafer bags to sock shoes, 2024 was all about the mashed-up accessoryWallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss reflects on the rise of the surreal hybrid accessory in 2024, a trend which reflects the disorientating nature of contemporary living – where nothing is quite what it seems
-
Wallpaper* beauty editor Hannah Tindle’s eclectic gift guideWallpaper* beauty editor Hannah Tindle ideas for festive gifting include a scalp-stimulating hairbrush, a mid-century ‘party’ ashtray and an archival poster for Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut
-
20 years of Dover Street Market’s transporting in-store installations, from giant elephants to soft toysAs Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe’s radical London concept store, celebrates its 20th anniversary, we look back at ten of its most colourful installations, crafted alongside Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Martin Parr and more
-
Fashionable Christmas baubles to accessorise this year’s tree, from Bottega Veneta to LoeweSelected by the Wallpaper* style team, a gleaming array of Christmas baubles for fashion fans featuring fantastical designs from Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Prada and more
-
What makes a ‘winter perfume’? The Wallpaper* guide to fragrances that linger on the skin and in the airThe Wallpaper* guide to winter perfume has been compiled by our beauty editor Hannah Tindle, including scents from the likes of Bottega Veneta, Frederic Malle and Marissa Zappas
-
The Wallpaper* S/S 2025 trend report: ‘A rejection of the derivative and the expected’Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss unpacks five trends and takeaways from the S/S 2025 shows, which paid ode to individual style and transformed the everyday
-
Inside the making of Loewe Perfumes’ porcelain bottle toppers, delicately crafted by LladróLoewe Perfumes’ limited edition flask toppers are crafted by Spanish porcelain company Lladró. Mary Cleary takes a look inside the making process, as featured in the October 2024 issue of Wallpaper*
-
The breathtaking runway sets of S/S 2025, from beanbag animals to a twisted living roomWallpaper* picks the best runway sets and show spaces of fashion month, which featured Bottega Veneta’s beanbag menagerie, opulence at Saint Laurent, and artist collaborations at Acne Studios and Burberry
