The ‘Symbolic Globe’ of Paris’ Maison de l'UNESCO provided the centre point of Pharrell Williams’ third collection for Louis Vuitton, an as-ever bombastic showcase of the multi-hyphenate’s expansive vision for the French house which saw him make a plea for global unity. ‘Le monde est à vous,’ is the slogan which ran throughout, translating to, ‘the world is yours’.
The minimal sculpture, conceived by Danish civil engineer Erik Reitzel in 1995, comprises 10,000 rods and joints of aluminium and depicts the globe as a vast spherical grid. Surrounded by the flags of the UNESCO nations – this evening fluttering in the breeze as the grey Paris skies threatened a downpour – it was originally constructed in Copenhagen, Denmark to symbolise the web of worldwide connections that UNESCO represents.
‘A community of LVERS’: Pharrell Williams holds latest Louis Vuitton show at UNESCO
Here, though, it was Louis Vuitton that Williams imagined as a unifying force. ‘Activating the maison’s mind-expanding travel gene, the collection illustrates the degrees of similarities which bind us across the globe,’ he said via the collection’s glossary-like notes. In this spirit, what he called the ‘community of LVERs’ – the guests attending the show – were each given a special version of Apple’s AirTag in a Louis Vuitton-engraved silver case as the show’s invitation. Williams was no doubt thinking of the far-flung corners of the world the trackers will end up, a satisfying nod to the house’s roots in travel and adventure.
The look itself was described by Williams as ‘Global Dandy’, taking cues from the various uniforms of those associated with travel, from ’the pilot’ (bomber and flight jackets, silk neckerchiefs) to ‘the diplomat’ (sleek double-breasted tailoring, ties, trench coats). Elsewhere, references to workwear ran throughout – albeit reimagined in luxurious style – while other pieces recalled competitive sportswear, like a football shirt emblazoned with ‘LVERS United‘. The latter was a nod to the upcoming Paris Olympics, another symbol of global community (LVMH is one of the Olympics ‘premium partners’).
Colours, said Williams, were made to evoke an array of skin tones, ’including the deepest black created by the Louis Vuitton Studio’. The idea of ‘skin’ ran throughout: woven fabrics recalled animal hides, while a version of his signature ’Damoflage’ – which turns the house’s damier check into a camo print – was deemed the ‘Snake-o-Flage’, inspired by python skin. Meanwhile, versions of the house’s signature Alma, Christopher and Neverfull bags were recreated in soft, tactile leather.
It was soundtracked by a new composition from Williams, performed by a live orchestra and gospel choir. Like his first show, held on Paris’ Pont Neuf almost a year to the day, it reached its shuddering crescendo as Williams took his gleeful final bow and guests clamoured for a glimpse. 12 months after his blockbuster arrival in Paris, he remains one of menswear’s biggest draws.
Watch the show below.
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