Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024: what to expect
Everything we know about Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024 so far, from Pharrell Williams’ debut at Louis Vuitton to Fendi’s guest appearance at Pitti Uomo
Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024 is well underway, with shows already having taken place in London and Florence earlier in June, Milan running until 19 June, and Paris still to come (there was even a brief pit-stop in Berlin, where Saint Laurent showed its latest menswear collection in a one-off show on 12 June). As expected, we’re seeing an amalgam of established houses and rising names, alongside city swaps, blockbuster happenings, and designer debuts – including the first collection from Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton, where the polymathic musician was made menswear creative director earlier this year.
Here, in an ongoing round-up, is everything Wallpaper* knows about Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024.
Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024: what to expect
London Fashion Week (10 – 12 June 2023)
The June edition of London Fashion Week S/S 2024 – the event traditionally comprising only menswear shows, though now co-ed – operated on a reduced schedule, with just a handful of events scattered over the weekend. Among them were presentations from Saul Nash (winner of the 2022 International Woolmark Prize), resortwear label SMR Days, and Qasimi, which showed alongside designers from its ‘Qasimi Rising’ talent incubator. Alongside, there were shows from the fashion departments of Westminster University, Ravensbourne University, and the University of East London, and events including the launch of Browns’ collaboration with Crenshaw Skate Club, a pub quiz celebrating 30 years of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen scheme, and a panel talk on the future of men’s fashion. A late addition, and showing off-schedule, was Martine Rose, who presented her latest collection at St Joseph’s Community Centre in Highgate.
Pitti Uomo (12 – 15 June 2023)
The headline act at this year’s Pitti Uomo – the historic menswear fair which takes place each season in Florence – was Italian house Fendi, which showed its S/S 2024 menswear collection as one of this season’s guest designers (previous headliners have included houses Givenchy, Jil Sander and Valentino and designers Raf Simons, Grace Wales Bonner, and Martine Rose, among others). Silvia Venturini Fendi chose the recently opened Fendi Factory in the rolling hills of Capannuccia, just outside of Florence, to present the collection in a special runway show on 15 June. The other guest designer this season was Eli Russell Linnetz of Venice Beach-based label ERL, who showed his latest collection at the fair, alongside a ‘special project to portray his crossover vision among fashion, design, and lifestyle’ (it also took place on 15 June). Elsewhere, over 800 brands presented as part of the event, including Fila, Sunspel, Rains, Giuseppe Zanotti, Carharrt and more.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s (16 – 19 June 2023)
Milan Fashion Week will begin with a dedicated menswear show from Valentino, set to take place on the afternoon of 16 June. Titled ‘The Narratives Menswear’ show and held at the Università degli Studi di Milano Statale, it breaks with the house’s co-ed shows of recent seasons held in Paris – a dedication, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli says, to house founder Valentino Garavani, who showed his first menswear collection in 1985 in Milan. Elsewhere, Ralph Lauren Purple Label will return to the schedule, Margherita Missoni’s new Maccapani brand will debut, and British labels JW Anderson and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy will also continue to show in the city having decamped to Milan in recent seasons. The week will also feature the usual slew of high-profile names which continue to define the city‘s menswear offering, including Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Tod’s, Missoni, and Zegna, the latter closing proceedings on the afternoon of 19 June.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s (20 – 25 June 2023)
All eyes will be on Louis Vuitton, where Pharrell Williams will show his debut collection for the house, having been made menswear creative director earlier this year – he will close out the first day with a show at 8:30pm on June 20, 2023 (so far, his vision remains under wraps). Elsewhere, expect the usual Parisian stalwarts – Dior, Loewe, Hermès, and Givenchy among them – alongside the growing roster of emerging labels, from home and abroad, who are choosing to show in the city synonymous with style. Belgian designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin is currently slated to close the week on June 25, 2023; the designer recently garnered attention for exiting Ann Demeulemeester as creative director after just one season.
Stay tuned for more from Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2024.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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