Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025 highlights: Auralee to Louis Vuitton
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025 began yesterday with Pharrell Williams’ celebration of a ‘friendship for life’ with streetwear legend Nigo. Reporting from Paris, Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss picks the best of the week, as it unfolds
Paris Fashion Week Men’s marks the final stop on menswear’s A/W 2025 month-long tour, a blockbuster finale comprising shows from some of fashion’s biggest names – among them Dior and Louis Vuitton, the latter opening proceedings yesterday evening with Pharrell Williams’ latest collection for the house. Celebrating a ‘friendship for life’ with streetwear legend Nigo, he teamed up with the Kenzo creative director on a co-designed collection shown among a series of vitrines containing objects from their personal archives (a nod to Nigo’s legendary fashion collection, which numbers over 10,000 pieces).
Elsewhere, there will be no-doubt-arresting shows from Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe, alongside the debut Paris show from Issey Miyake’s IM Men line (it will replace the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake presentation the Japanese label usually shows in Paris). And, while Loewe might be sitting this season out, a handful of new arrivals on the schedule will fill the gaps: notably, Willy Chavarria will shift from New York to Paris, and Jacquemus will host a dedicated menswear show. British designer Peter Copping’s anticipated debut at Lanvin will close the week on the evening of 26 January (he will show his first men’s and womenswear collections together)
Here, reporting from Paris, Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss unpacks the highlights from Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025, as they happen.
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025: the best of
Louis Vuitton
‘The artistic manifestation of a friendship for life,’ described Pharrell Williams of his latest Louis Vuitton menswear collection, which saw the multi-hyphenate designer collaborate with Tokyo streetwear legend Nigo, the founder of A Bathing Ape and current creative director of Kenzo. Since meeting in the early 2000s, the pair have shared a ‘creative synergy’ – they would create Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream in 2003 – celebrated in the Louvre showspace, which featured a number of vitrines containing pieces from each of their personal archives (from rails of clothing to CDs, sneakers, tapes, trunks and luggage).
Indeed, the eclectic, freewheeling collection felt like a journey through the pair’s fixations, taking workwear silhouettes – carpenter pants, denim, bomber jackets and blousons – and elevating them through fabric and embellishment, whether crystal adornment or camouflage damier leather (though there was also strong tailoring, too, the silhouette comprising a boxy blazer worn with gently flared trousers which puddled at the ankle). More playful elements – like a lobster-shaped handbag or a pink ‘cherry blossom’ damier check – reflected both designers’ love of Japanese street culture.
The finale saw the pair taking a shared bow, while post-show guests mingled to take in some of the extraordinary objects on display, a minuscule slice of Nigo’s legendary archive, which numbers 10,000 pieces of workwear, streetwear and ephemera. ‘[It’s] a conversation between the past and future,’ Williams described. ‘[A] gaze into the future through the telescope of history.’
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Auralee
A quiet confidence exudes from Ryota Iwai’s Auralee, reflected in a growing buzz around the Tokyo-based label, which, despite having been in business for ten years, is only now gaining prominence outside of its native Japan (it is a favourite among many fashion insiders). For A/W 2025, Iwai continued his exploration of the everyday wardrobe, enlivening its components through intriguing fabrications and unexpected colour combinations. There was an enveloping faux-fur jacket worn with a perfect blue shirt collar poking out from beneath, fuzzy mittens which hung around the neck, a pair of carpenter pants gently splashed with paint, colourful striped knitwear, and perfectly shrunken hoodies and cardigans – our wish list went on.
‘I drew inspiration from a friend whose effortless individuality struck me. Whether dressed in an elegant suit one day or their old worn-out T-shirt the next, they always exuded a sense of unapologetic authenticity,’ Iwai explained of the collection’s starting point. ‘It’s about the relationship between personal artefacts and the modern wardrobe: an old leather jacket from [your] younger days, a knit cardigan, now too small, that still offers comfort and reassurance. [With this collection] we aim to honour these keepsakes and mementoes... A place where your old favourite T-shirt carries the same significance as a luxurious cashmere coat.’
Stay tuned for more from Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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