Mushroom beta-glucans are a hero ingredient for French skincare brand Verdoie

Mushroom beta-glucans are a powerhouse in hydration and healing, according to Sonia Gaillis-Delepine, founder of new French skincare and supplement brand Verdoie.

From alternative fashion materials to the literal building blocks of tomorrow’s cities, mycology (the study of mushrooms) is driving a new wave of innovation across industries. One key area is wellness, where, between Dyson’s mushroom-powered Beauty Tech, bio-based perfumes, and the projected $2.98 billion mushroom cosmetics market, there’s a growing consensus on the popularity and myriad benefits of fungi. But mushrooms are not just ‘the moment’ for Gaillis-Delepine. In fact, they have been an integral part of her family for five generations.

The benefits of mushroom beta-glucans can be found in hydrating French skincare by Verdoie

The Delepines have a long history with mycelium, with Sonia’s great, great, great grandfather Pierre-Louis growing Champignon de Paris in the 1870s on a subterranean plot beneath the streets of the French capital. Eventually, the Delepine catacombs were shuttered in the 1900s when the city began working on its iconic metro system and concerns over structural integrity took precedence. Though mycology ceased to be the primary family occupation, it remained a pivotal force, with Sonia’s father spending childhood summers in Breisach am Rhein near the German Black Forest, foraging for chanterelles and girolles, later imparting the dietary benefits of fungi. ‘Mushrooms have always been a culinary staple in our home,’ says Delepine. ‘We’ve long understood how immuno-supportive they are, as well as an excellent source of vitamins and minerals.’

Delepine’s route back to mycology was circuitous. Born in France, she moved to America as a child and studied communications before returning for her master’s degree. While working a 9-5, she took time off to visit Plum Village, Nobel Peace Prize-nominated Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh’s Buddhist retreat near Bordeaux, where she fell in love with modern agriculture. ‘I was inspired to help on their organic and regenerative farm – learning about cover crops, seasonal eating, soil health.’ From here, she gravitated toward perfumery, taking a role at DSM-Firmenich, where she deepened her understanding of organic suppliers and their craft. ‘I loved learning about Firmenich’s relationship with our farmers – the terrains, where the ingredients come from, the supply chain – being so close to the source,’ she says. ‘It felt so human and emotional.’

Delepine had always suffered from stress-induced skin sensitivities and was reactive to often harsh topical treatments. She had previously experimented with organic cures, but through her work at Firmenich, realised she could bridge her family’s legacy with real-world medical benefits. She began studying organic skincare formulation, learning about anhydrous formulations, emulsions, surfactant systems – the nitty gritty behind developing a beauty line – as well as ingredient compatibility and functions and preservative systems.

From there, she surveyed the beauty landscape and tinkered with how to address skin concerns while developing product ideas, later recruiting an ex-Clinique and Soft Services formulator and the former herbalist for Moon Juice for what would become Verdoie. The brand launched this week (27 January 2025) with a luxurious, nutrient-rich moisturiser, La Crème Hydratante. Containing three different types of mushroom with different properties (chaga is calming and tremella hydrates, whilst shiitake clarifies) the cream also includes SymRepair to boost barrier function. An accompanying supplement, Le Complément Alimentaire, features more tremella, alongside the apoptogenic reishi mushroom, plus Ceramosides and antioxidants such as vitamin E.

‘I was taking mushrooms to support my immune system and saw it was doing wonders for my skin,’ she explains, reiterating that mycelium’s powerful beta-glucans have incredibly potent abilities to retain moisture and are a rich antioxidant that can support skin and prevent oxidative stress. (Since fungi require less water, land, and human resources than many other ingredients, they’re also quite sustainable). ‘I realised that the mushrooms I had always loved were magical, not only because they can proliferate without adding excess complexity to the environment, but also because they are power-packed ingredients that truly do more with less.’

Verdoie’s mushrooms are hand-harvested in an underground parking garage, attached to a social housing complex. As a public benefit corporation, Verdoie is on track to achieve B-Corp certification after one year in business. ‘My great, great, great grandfather selected the catacombs for their perfect microclimate – dark, humid with a stable temperature – and what it meant for underground production and year-round farming,’ she explains. ‘Working in an urban farm feels like a wink to that legacy.’

Verdoie is also designed to support immediate needs while serving a preventive purpose. ‘Your skin is an incredible technology, and it's evolved to protect you against a changing climate and the outside world,’ says Delepine, noting that topicals can only go so far and that building skin health from the inside out is a necessity, hence her desire to also create a supplement. (The cream and supplement can be bought and used together as the Le Shroom Stack).

‘Mushrooms are incredible organisms that sustain ecosystems and challenge our understanding of individuality. They illuminate interdependence,’ explains Delepine about fungi’s innate ability to create regenerative micro-communities. ‘Our vision at Verdoie is to redefine people’s relationship with mushrooms and elevate them as an everyday choice for natural health and vitality.’ And perhaps, along the way, even change the template of what a 21st-century beauty brand can look and feel like.

verdoie.com