At Maria Grazia Chiuri’s S/S 2025 runway show for Dior, the Italian designer referenced the ‘Amazone’, an archival Christian Dior dress from the designer’s 1951 Autumn-Winter Haute Couture collection. Inspired by a group of French female horseriders – ‘Amazone’ derives from the Gallic word for ‘side saddle’ – Chiuri used it as a jumping-off point for a sleek, sporty outing at the house, where lean silhouettes referenced the contemporary uniforms of women equestrians and archers (indeed, as a backdrop to the show, the archer-slash-artist Sagg Napoli fired shots on target).
It spoke to a graphic through-line which ran through the season’s collections, seeing streamlined, engineered silhouettes – oftentimes in black – speak to a renewed focus on design and construction. There were the bold blown-up hourglass dresses at Acne Studios, the effect reminiscent of dressing a paper doll; the twisting, body-conscious contours of Antonin Tron’s Atlein (the designer is an avid surfer); or the supersized lace-up fastenings of Demna’s S/S 2025 collection for Balenciaga.
Here, Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes and photographer Gabriele Rosati give these silhouettes a graphic treatment, as seen in the April 2025 Issue of Wallpaper* – on newsstands now.
S/S 2025’s streamlined silhouettes
Top, £2,490 (enquire at balenciaga.com); skirt, £4,590 (enquire at balenciaga.com); boots, £1,490 (available balenciaga.com), all by Balenciaga
Bodysuit, price on request, by Max Mara (enquire at maxmara.com). Shoes, price on request, by Sportmax (enquire at sportmax.com)
Above, dress, price on request, by Acne Studios (enquire at acnestudios.com). Sunglasses, £270, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com)
Above, coat, £4,900, by Bally (available bally.co.uk). Boots, £1,490, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com)
Dress, £4,960, by Gucci (enquire at gucci.com)
Top, £825 (available sportmax.com); trousers, £565, both by Sportmax (available sportmax.com). Boots, £1,490, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com)
Dress, price on request, by Courrèges (enquire at courreges.com). Boots, £1,490, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com)
Dress, £1,080, by Atlein (available atlein.com). Gloves, £496, by Paula Rowan (available paularowan.com)
Top, £1,550; bra, £675; pants, £1,250, all by Dolce & Gabbana (enquire at dolcegabbana.com). Shoes, price on request, by Sportmax (enquire at sportmax.com)
Dress, £435; earrings, £255, both by Kiko Kostadinov (enquire at kikokostadinov.com)
Model: Migoa Guol at Elite London. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: David Curtis-Ring at Hen House. Hair: Tobia Bartolini using Oribe. Make-up: Sunao Takahaski at Saint Luke using Byredo. Digi tech: Alexander Brunacci. Photography assistants: Luca Chiapatti, Hayleigh Longman. Fashion assistant: Nathan Fox. Set design assistants: Henry Hawksworth, Candice Mac. Production assistant: Archie Thomson.
A version of this article appears in the April 2025 issue of Wallpaper* , available in print on newsstands from 6 March 2025, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today
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