Trudon ‘Absolu’: an intoxicating orange blossom perfume for the start of autumn

Trudon’s latest fragrance ‘Absolu’ has been created by nose Antoine Lie as an ode to the orange blossom. ‘It is a powerful perfume,’ he says. ‘To me [orange blossom] is the most universal flower, one that transcends all eras.’

As the oldest candle manufacturer in the world, ‘transcending eras’ is Julien Pruvost’s raison d’être as Trudon’s creative director. The Maison was founded in 1643 by Claude Trudon, coinciding with Louis XIV’s reign and the establishment of his court at Versailles, and became the palace’s official wax-maker up until the French Revolution. Pruvost joined Trudon in 2019, a couple of years after the brand debuted its first collection of perfumes by Lie, Lyn Harris and Yann Vasnier.

Marrying a history that spans almost four centuries with contemporary scent-making, Pruvost’s vision for Trudon has included collaborations with Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain. At the same time, under his leadership, it has joined the likes of Chaumet and Hermès as one of France’s Living Heritage Companies.

In April 2024, a Trudon home fragrance collection captured the Versailles gardens in bloom. ‘Absolu’ is decidedly more autumnal, marking the transition into a new season with honey notes of orange blossom absolute and saffron, resinous cardamom, rich tonka bean and smoky guaiac wood. Here, Pruvost and Lie tell Wallpaper* the story behind it.

Trudon ‘Absolu’ by Antoine Lie: an intoxicating orange blossom perfume for the start of autumn

Wallpaper*: When you have an idea for a fragrance, how do you decide which nose to work with? In the case of ‘Absolu’, why was Antoine Lie the right perfumer to create this scent?

Julien Pruvost: The perfumer’s sensitivity, taste, track record and enthusiasm to work with Trudon are key. I select one perfumer per project, for them to translate an idea. And, they are always provided with a great deal of freedom. Antoine Lie is a master perfumer with tremendous sensitivity and soul. I wanted someone of that calibre to create ‘Absolu’ so the perfume could feel timeless yet also speak to the present day.

W*: And as the perfumer working on ‘Absolu’, how did you develop the fragrance?

Antoine Lie: The idea was to create a truly emblematic perfume for Trudon, one that would convey the brand’s story, heritage and DNA. So it was developed in the same way I work with all my clients and partners: through genuine creative dialogue and collaboration between Julien and me. This type of collaboration is incredibly important to me.

Wallpaper*: What are the key inspirations behind ‘Absolu’?

JP: Louis XIV served as inspiration for ‘Absolu’. When he was raised as the Sun King, he imposed his tastes on all aspects of court life, including perfume. The young king detested the pungent, animal notes used by most and preferred the more delicate floral notes. Orange blossom was his absolute favourite.

He would require to be literally doused with orange blossom water in the mornings. They would use large syringe-like devices to spray the scented water on him and his garments. I always wanted Trudon to appropriate some of the great natural ingredients of the world of perfumery. Orange blossom was on the top of my list (and it’s also a personal favourite, too).

W* Why did you choose notes of saffron and tonka bean to marry with the orange blossom absolute, which is floral and fresh?

AL: I used some strong ingredients with a lot of personality to add a twist to the orange blossom because I wanted to create something more intricate. A straightforward interpretation did not make sense to me; ‘Absolu’ has a complexity. Saffron was used to add depth and verticality to this fragrance and tonka bean adds strength and richness. But also a touch of softness.

W* How do you create a fragrance that feels ‘Trudon’?

AL: The Trudon creative process is guided by four key principles: richness, naturality, singularity and quality. In creating ‘Absolu’, for example, I deliberately chose not to use many synthetic notes or typical commercial ingredients. Instead, I focused on ingredients that were not only natural but also historically significant. This approach ensures that each element in the perfume resonates with the same sense of authenticity and heritage that Trudon represents.

W*: What makes a fragrance a ‘Trudon’ fragrance?

JP: A Trudon fragrance is sensitive, timeless, original and sophisticated, with beautiful natural ingredients at its heart. ‘Absolu’ [is all these things] thanks to Antoine Lie’s unique creative approach.

Trudon ‘Absolu’, £210, is available now.

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