Sculpted silhouettes, warped weaves, razor-sharp cuts – men’s tailoring is imbued with a spirit of subversion this season, as designers and brands seek to rework and reimagine the suit. Their spoils arrive at the beginning of a season filled with potential for dressing up; here, as taken from the December 2023 Entertaining Issue of Wallpaper* – photographed by Daniel Riera Fashion with fashion by David St John – a selection of that tailoring ready to make an impression over the celebratory winter months ahead.
Razor-sharp men’s tailoring to make an impression this winter
Jacket, £1,650; top, £610; trousers, £1,150; shoes, £1,050, all by Fendi
Take the unexpected proportions of Gucci’s elongated double-breasted blazer and wide-legged tailored shorts (top left), a playful top-heavy silhouette nonetheless conjuring the Italian elegance at the heart of the label. Or from Fendi, an immaculate single-breasted suit whereby the trousers are overlaid with a diaphanous apron-like skirt (below); when it was first shown in Milan, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi said she was inspired by the outré dress codes of infamous New York nightspot Studio 54.
Others riff on classic tailoring archetypes, like Dolce & Gabbana’s take on the white tuxedo – here cut with a narrow sculpted waist – or the shrunken two-tone lapel of a double-breasted suit by Maximillian Davis at Ferragamo which recalls military uniforms, here reimagined with a minimal rigour.
Jacket, £2,550; trousers, £1,050; boots, £1,175, all by Alexander McQueen
Jacket, £2,550; trousers, £1,050; boots, £1,175, all by Alexander McQueen
Jacket, £4,100; shirt, £900; trousers, £800, all by Hermès. Shoes, £1,115, by John Lobb
Jacket, £2,600; sleeves, £1,100; top, £1,450; trousers, £1,300, all by Dior. Shoes, €850, by Santoni. ‘Fynn’ armchair, from £4,890, by GamFratesi, for Minotti
Jacket; trousers; gloves; shoes, all price on request, by Dolce & Gabbana
Jacket; trousers; gloves; shoes, all price on request, by Dolce & Gabbana
Jacket, £2,825; shirt, £240; trousers, £1,505, all by Ferragamo
Jacket, £2,590; top, £1,605; trousers, £965; shoes £1,290, all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Jacket, £2,720; trousers, £1,030, both by Louis Vuitton. Shoes, £1,115, by John Lobb ‘CH88T’ chair, £491, by Hans J Wegner, for Carl Hansen & Søn
Model: Przemek Szubert at Riches Mgm. Casting: Ikki Casting at The Art Board. Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents using Hair Rituel by Sisley. Digi tech: Marc de Miguel. Fashion assistant: Molly Swatman. Retouching: La Cápsula Fotográfica.
A version of this story appeared in the December 2023 Entertaining Issue of Wallpaper*, available in print from 9 November, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!
-
Revolutionary Apple icon designer Susan Kare unveils a playful jewellery and objet collaboration with Asprey StudioAsprey Studio's new collection, Esc Keys, brings digital artworks by Susan Kare to life
-
What is the role of fragrance in contemporary culture, asks a new exhibition at 10 Corso ComoMilan concept store 10 Corso Como has partnered with London creative agency System Preferences to launch Olfactory Projections 01
-
Jack White's Third Man Records opens a Paris pop-upJack White's immaculately-branded record store will set up shop in the 9th arrondissement this weekend
-
Margot Robbie, Marina Abramović and a 15-step Korean scalp treatment: the most-read Wallpaper* beauty stories of 2024The news of Margot Robbie becoming the face of Chanel No.5 and an illustrated guide to a 15-step Korean scalp treatment are just two of the most-read Wallpaper* beauty stories from the year gone by
-
Unboxing beauty products from 2024, as seen on the pages of Wallpaper*Wallpaper's 2024 beauty picks included Chanel lipstick, Bottega Veneta perfume and solid soap from the likes of Aesop, Celine, Diptyque, Hermès and Sisley
-
These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
-
The Wallpaper* style team pick their fashion moments of 2024The Wallpaper* style editors reflect on their best fashion moments of 2024, from Rick Owens’ 200-strong Hollywood epic to an Eyes Wide Shut-inspired JW Anderson show, and a slicked-back beauty look at Saint Laurent
-
Giant cats, Madonna wigs, pints of Guinness: seven objects that tell the story of fashion in 2024These objects tell an unconventional story of style in 2024, a year when the ephemera that populated designers’ universes was as intriguing as the collections themselves
-
How 2024 brought beauty and fashion closer than ever before2024 was a year when beauty and fashion got closer than ever before, with runway moments, collaborations and key launches setting the scene for 2025 and beyond
-
Loafer bags to sock shoes, 2024 was all about the mashed-up accessoryWallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss reflects on the rise of the surreal hybrid accessory in 2024, a trend which reflects the disorientating nature of contemporary living – where nothing is quite what it seems
-
The wait is over: Matthieu Blazy is Chanel’s new creative directorMatthieu Blazy has been appointed as the new artistic director at Chanel, after a critically lauded and commercially successful tenure as creative director of Bottega Veneta
