As usual, our biannual Wallpaper* Style Issue reflects the changing fashion seasons. Rather less usually, this March 2025 edition arrives at a moment of relative upheaval within the industry, with close to a dozen creative directors on manoeuvres. Given that this list includes the likes of Sarah Burton, Matthieu Blazy and Haider Ackermann, it’s fair to say that something more involving than the industry-standard ‘musical chairs’ is underway.
Meanwhile, something akin to fashion’s tectonic plates is in motion, ushering in a more liberated, less prescriptive view of what a collection can be. Fashion features editor Jack Moss first identified the shift at Prada, where, he writes, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons chose to operate ‘more like an open-ended invitation: who do you want to be today? “Infinite options proffer infinite opportunities,” said the house. These options comprised 49 entirely different looks to choose from; a collage of elements with barely a garment or idea repeated.’
Vests, both price on request, by Dior, enquire at dior.com. Mask, by Undercover, undercoverism.com
This disavowal of the traditional ‘convening power’ of a collection, unless defined by its very disparity, inspired Jack and fashion & creative director Jason Hughes to explore further examples of this new, more eclectic mood. They found it in the work of Satoshi Kondo at Issey Miyake, Francesco Risso at Marni – whose S/S 2025 collection once again celebrated the house’s individuality – and Rei Kawakubo’s characteristic perfume provocations at Comme des Garçons.
Coat, £1,390, by Victoria Beckham, enquire at victoriabeckham.com. Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova, enquire at hodakova.com
Elsewhere, we conjure with the spirit of self-expression that resides in the work of fashion designer-turned-jeweller Gabrielle Greiss; Eva Gödel, whose model agency Tomorrow Is Another Day is changing the mores of the runway; and the founders of Furu, the project management agency that is turning to architecture in the stark surroundings of the Swedish island of Gotland. Going your own way never felt less fanciful, more freeing, so now.
Bill Prince
Editor-in-Chief
The March 2025 issue of Wallpaper* is available in print on newsstands from 6 February 2025, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today
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Step inside this furniture gallerist's live-work space by Steven Holl in upstate New YorkDesigned by Steven Holl for modern furniture gallerists Mark McDonald and Dwayne Resnick, this live-work space in upstate New York is a midcentury collector’s paradise
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This Rabanne handbag comes with its own rain jacketThe novel handbag arrives as part of Julien Dossena’s S/S 2025 collection for Rabanne, which featured the house’s chainmail handbags in opulent new materials
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The museum of the future: how architects are redefining cultural landmarksWhat does the museum of the future look like? As art evolves, so do the spaces that house it – pushing architects to rethink form and function
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025 highlights: Givenchy to Issey MiyakeWallpaper* selects the very best of Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025, as it happens, from Sarah Burton’s strong start at Givenchy to Erwin Wurm’s ‘One Minute Sculptures’ at Issey Miyake
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Cut and paste: how to wear the S/S 2025 menswear collectionsLayered-up and collaged looks capture the eclectic mood of the S/S 2025 menswear collections, giving you a blueprint of how to dress for the season ahead
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The best beauty products of the month, from Prada mascara to Westman Atelier’s bronzing dropsThe best beauty products of the month, selected by Wallpaper*, include a new Prada mascara, Westman Atelier’s bronzing drops and more
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Prada A/W 2025’s ‘dishevelled’ beauty look confronted the big tech algorithmAt Prada A/W 2025, Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander subverted prescriptive codes of ‘femininity’ through hair and make-up
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Inside the fantastical world of Francesco Risso’s Marni: ‘We push it to the maximum’After a standout S/S 2025 show, Simon Chilvers heads to Milan to meet Marni’s nonconformist creative director Francesco Risso, a designer seeking the ultimate self-expression through clothing
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A guide to the best fashion stores Milan has to offerAs Milan Fashion Week arrives in the city today (25 February 2025), Wallpaper* picks the must-visit Milan fashion stores – from hidden vintage hangouts to concept spaces and big-name boutiques
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For S/S 2025, nothing is quite what it seems with these twisted wardrobe staplesTrompe l’oeil, twisted silhouettes, unexpected fabrications: S/S 2025 sees designers play on wardrobe staples in increasingly surreal ways
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Intoxicating perfumes can ‘haunt, beguile and seduce’A intoxicating perfume, such as the below fragrances featured in the March 2025 issue of Wallpaper*, can haunt, beguile and seduce, writes Hannah Tindle
