Dunhill's fall presentation at Bourdon House confirmed what we suspected for some time now - that it has a knack at bridging the classic with the super-current. In the case for fall, imagine the accidental lovechild of a debonair dandy and a fearless seafarer, and you get the picture.
One part Duke of Windsor, one part Sir Ernest Shackleton, the bilateral British man that the collection celebrates is one who needs to be both suave and suited, but also has a bit of the adventurous outdoorsman in him.
The canny team have made sure the different tidbits of sartorial flare appeal to the one and the many - daywear needs are met in the likes of a reversible herringbone-to-black jacket with storm-flap details, a double breasted Alpaca wool overcoat in camel, and a silk parka with beaver fur lining; while of course, as day turns to night,
there are the much-needed change of clothes in the form of single-breasted dinner jackets and navy suits, cut to strict eveningwear codes.
Arranged rather effectively in a series of tableaus in the brand's Georgian mansion, models showed off the collection's modern fascination with things like deconstructed shoulders and reinvented dandy-esque accessories, but it was also the brand's commitment to luxurious cuts and fabric, that made this showcase a heady precursor to London Fashion Week's dedicated menswear day.
... But it was also the brand’s commitment to luxurious cuts and fabric, that made this showcase a heady precursor to London Fashion Week’s dedicated menswear day.
Designed with travel in mind, the Camdeboo fabric used in this tableau is pretty versatile, owing to the fact that it doesn’t crease.
The ’Discovery’ tableau, showcased here, has a contemporary aesthetic with craftsmanship-centred sensibilities.
Daywear needs are met with pieces like the silk parka with beaver fur lining, the cashmere fisherman’s jumper, and a silk bomber with shearling lining in navy...
... while of course, as day turns to night, there are the much-needed change of clothes in the form of single-breasted dinner jackets and navy suits, cut to strict eveningwear codes.
Left: Patch pocket single-breasted suit in cobalt blue pinstripe; Pale blue and red wave jacquard shirt; Red paisley print silk pocket square; Wooden facet cufflinks; Red compass print silk scarf tie; Tan brogue Derby
Right: Unstructured herringbone jacket in navy; Navy lightweight Mongolian cashmere cable knit gilet; Navy pinstripe trousers; Lilac paisley print silk pocket square; Pale blue and white wide stripe shirt; Grey mother of pearl mosaic cufflinks; Purple compass print silk scarf tie; Black nappa leather gloves with silk lining and metal AD embroidery; Tan plain Derby
Left: Twill three piece suit in navy; Pale blue and red wave jacquard shirt; Red twig print silk scarf tie; Burgundy and navy paisley print silk pocket square; Rotating azurite globe cufflinks; Navy nappa leather gloves with silk lining and metal AD embroidery; Tan scotchgrain brogue Derby
Right: Single-breasted two colour textured dinner jacket in navy with black trims; Black silk grosgrain bow tie with silver Art Deco Hand & Lock embroidery; White shirt; Black silk grosgrain cummerbund; Crushed sapphire dress studs and cufflinks; Grey mother of pearl facet watch; Black patent evening shoes
Left: Silk parka with beaver fur lining in navy; Brown cashmere fisherman roll neck knit; Khaki twill trousers; Tan scotchgrain brogue hill boot
Right: Silk bomber with shearling lining in navy; Oatmeal sable cable knit crew neck sweater; Navy and yellow lumberjack; printed check brushed cotton shirt; Khaki twill trousers; Chocolate brown scotchgrain brogue hill boot
Left: Double faced duffle coat in navy; Navy and light grey felted wool fairisle sweater; Light grey brushed cashmere shirt; Navy windowpane check trousers; Black scotchgrain brogue hill boot
Right: Double faced peacoat in navy; Navy and light grey felted wool Fairisle scarf; Burgundy lightweight Mongolian cashmere cable knit tank; Navy and burgundy lumberjack printed check brushed cotton shirt; Navy wool jeans; Black shearling-lined hill boot
Left: Fairisle knit sweater in navy, burgundy and white; Pale grey brushed cotton melange check shirt; Navy trousers with burgundy pinstripe; Chocolate brown shearling-lined hill boot
Right: Blocked flannel jacket in charcoal and navy; Navy lightweight Mongolian cashmere Henley cable knit; Navy and burgundy lumberjack check brushed cotton shirt; Navy wool jeans; Tan scotchgrain brogue hill boot
Left: Patch pocket unstructured blazer in charcoal grey; Burgundy lightweight Mongolian cashmere Henley cable knit; Navy brushed cotton mélange check shirt; Navy cotton mini chevron jeans; Navy Bladon soft holdall; Tan shearling lined hill boot
Right: Single-breasted textured suit in steel blue; White and burgundy cotton pocket square; Pale greyWestern check shirt; Blue natte club stripe tie; Chocolate brown mixed leather brogue boot
Left: Double-breasted Camdeboo blazer in steel grey; Navy wool and silk textured stripe trousers; Navy wool printed stripe tie; White shirt; Wooden facet cufflinks; Black plain Derby
Right: Three piece Camdeboo suit in steel grey; Gunmetal AD compass Hand & Lock badge; Burgundy wool print stripe tie; White shirt; Wooden sledge cufflinks; Black brogue Derby
The A/W 2011 look book that landed on our desks after the presentation, consisting of a hard fabric-bound box...
... which then opens up to reveal all the looks...
... with each look assigned to its own pull-out page.
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