Alta Roma 2013: an editor’s diary from Rome’s haute couture week

Rome's haute couture fashion week may not boast the same big designer names as Paris, but what Alta Roma lacks in high wattage runways, it gains in local charm. The five day event, overseen by Alta Roma President Silvia Fendi, features runway shows by historic Roman couture houses as well as up and coming Italy-based designers looking for a fresh venue for added attention. The real hidden jewel of this event, however, are the doors that Fendi has purposefully opened to the many nooks and crannies of Roman art, culture and artisans.
The first day, for example, started with a civilised midday cocktail in Gente - Rome's poshest multi-brand store in Via Babuino - for Sergio Zambon and the Spring collection he designed for Galitzine. Later that night, Andrea Provvidenza made a surprising splash with a presentation of coats by his Lodental label, that brought out the city's coolest young girls. Provvidenza was honoured the same night in a family-style dinner at the home of Ines Musumeci Greco, one of the city's most important contemporary art collectors.
The mood at Alta Roma is decidedly more relaxed than most other fashion weeks; At one point, young designer Caterina Gatta came honking down a small street in her Smart car and swooped me up for a ride to Cameron Silver's Decades book presentation at Galleria O, the city's best design gallery. An entire afternoon and evening was left open for journalists to wander the small cobblestoned streets for the A.I. Artisanal Intelligence project - a gallery walk which small art galleries hosted the work of young fashion and accessories designers.
This mingling of old and new is what Rome fashion is all about. The organizers rightly shed light on some of the city's best artisans, like famed shirt maker Piero Albertelli and bespoke suit makers Sartoria Ripense. Overseeing the whole operation is Silva Fendi, who every designer in town considers their fairy godmother. This year, Fendi used her global clout to round up red-carpet dresses from a selection of top international designers for her Limited/Unlimited exhibition, and followed it with a raucous, rowdy, dance-filled dinner party that perfectly captured the exuberant spirit of Rome.
The Lodental coats were displayed inside Rome's Santo Spirito church and accompanied by a video that projected streaming neon details onto a mannequin.
Click on the video to watch the Lodental presentation
Marco Giugliano and Nicolò Bologna are a young, Milan-based design team who brought their zany, print-tastic Marcobologna fashion label to Rome
The Gallery Apart in Via di Monserrato took part in the A.I. project, hosting handbags by Badura.
A metallic python and crocodile clutch by Badura.
Suede and exotic skin totes by Badura.
Alta Roma's bespoke tour took us on a journey into the workshops of some of the city's best artisans, like these gentlemen whipping up tailormade suits at Sartoria Ripens
Shirt master Piero Albertelli is a legend in Rome and still makes shirts for Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti
Reams of fine fabrics used for Albertelli shirts
The last stop on the bespoke tour was Marini Calzature, who is still making fine leather shoes the old fashioned way
Marcello Mastroianni's shoe form at Marini Calzature
Valentino may have cornered the market on the colour blue (its A/W 2012 catwalk was awash with the shade), but another legendary designer Renato Balestra was all about hue too. This year, Alta Roma asked 11 designers to create a work in homage to Balestra, like Caterina Gatta (left) and Marco Grisolia TK (right)
The power set for Silvia Fendi's Limited/Unlimited Exhibit inside the Hadrian Temple was designed by Milan based Creative Director Susanna Cucco. The exhibit's theme of red carpet dressing was given a subtle nod with black platforms lined with red LEDs
Fendi called upon fashion's biggest names like Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace as well as younger designers like Fausto Puglisi and Aquilano Rimondo to provide their most high-impact red carpet designs. Here are two of our favourites: Nino Lettieri's black tulle and embroidered georgette gown (Left) and Valentino's printed sheer lace dress
'There are eyes in the darkness' exhibition at Monitor gallery in Via Sforza Cesarini.
Clothing by Haans Nicholas Mott hangs in the Monitor gallery.
'Dalla macchina alla mano' exhibit at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch in Vicolo Sforza Cesarini.
Jewellery by Stefania Lucchetta featured at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch.
Haitan-born Rome based Stella Jean presented a collection that mashed-up African textiles, Navajo fur, and Andes jacquards
Clothes by Conny Groenewegen featured at Il Ponte Contemporanea gallery in Via di Panico.
The Alchemy N.7 installation at Il Ponte Contemporanea
La pelle del quotidiano' di Sissi at Spazio Innocenzo X in Via dell'Anima.
The cocktail party at Spazio Innocenzo X.
Designer Camilla Stipa launched her Kamo collection for the first time during last year's Alta Roma. The sandals are all handmade using Roman and Florentine artisans
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JJ Martin
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