Arthur Arbesser, the Austrian-born, Vienna-raised and London-educated wunderkind is sending graphic shockwaves through the Italian fashion capital. If Milan symbolises a distinctly Italian idea of sophisticated sex appeal dominated by the old guard of Italian design, then Arbesser’s frenzied eclecticism and penchant for pushing at the boundaries of taste signal a change of direction in the city’s fashion scene.
Last year, he consolidated a meteoric rise when his eponymous brand reached the final shortlist of the prestigious LVMH Prize; shortly after, he was also was announced as the new creative director of womenswear at Iceberg.
Arbesser’s first collection for the quirky Italian label was exactly what was required: an energetic reinterpretation of Iceberg’s eclectic archive with an experimentalism and daring that’s leading Milan’s new style stampede.
Running two labels can be a strain, though Arbesser shows no cracks: ‘Iceberg stands for colour, graphics and elevated sportswear – all things I can completely relate to my own label,’ he says. In many respects, his art-influenced aesthetic is a perfect fit with his new appointment, and the two distinct labels still find points of overlap in Arbesser’s self-proclaimed ‘design language’ – namely ‘a love of art and the brave and humorous usage of colour, logo and patterns’.
That said, his vision for Iceberg is firmly rooted in the brand’s history, right back to its founding message. ‘Knitwear!’ he exclaims, ‘Knitwear is Iceberg’s strongest area, and they have an amazing history, archive and knowledge base. The majority of this season's collection was knitwear, and I definitely want to do a lot of incredibly creative knits each season, to make the most out of the fantastic technical know-how that Iceberg has.’
The S/S 2016 collection drew heavily on the work of Enrico Baj, the appropriately avant-garde artist and critic whose works loom large in the 20th century surrealist canon. ‘I always tend to start a collection from something personal and since I’ve been a big fan of Baj's work for years, it all just fell naturally into place. I love his irony and the amazing patterns,’ he says. Baj’s work resonated strongly with Arbesser’s vision for his new creative venture. ‘That mix of military details and mad colours and graphics is full of humor and energy,' he concludes. 'It was perfect for Iceberg.’
The collection encompasses key notes of Arbesser's own, eponymous brand, including 'colour, graphics and elevated sportswear'
The two distinct labels find points of overlap; for example, ‘a love of art and the brave and humorous usage of colour, logo and patterns’
Iceberg retains a distinct identity through the collection's continued reliance on knitwear
Arbesser's boundary-pushing nature leaves Iceberg's future excitingly unpredictable. Pictured left: Arthur Arbesser, by Rafael Y Herman. Courtesy ALTA
INFORMATION
For more information, visit Iceberg’s website
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
A new Oxford Street pop-up celebrates IKEA's blue bagsIKEA's iconic blue bag gets its own pop-up concept store, the 'Hus of Frakta'.
-
Audemars Piguet and Kaws have created the Royal Oak Concept watch we didn't know we neededThe Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' is slick wrist-worn art
-
A friendly rivalry coloured by kinship: Wendy Maruyama and Tom Loeser on their two-artist show'I wanted to make furniture, just not traditional furniture, but weird furniture,' says Wendy Maruyama on ‘Colorama’, a two-artist show presented at design gallery Superhouse (until 11 January 2025)
-
‘He made something not merely popular, but the rage’: unpacking Elio Fiorucci’s fabulous fashion legacyAn expansive new retrospective at Triennale Milano explores the colourful life and work of Elio Fiorucci, who is synonymous with 1970s hedonism and glamour
-
How fashion designer Ilenia Durazzi designed her ‘elegant, rigorous’ Milanese studio – all the way down to the furnitureIlenia Durazzi of Durazzi Milano tells Wallpaper* the story behind her new Milanese studio, a labour of love built entirely to her exacting design
-
‘What does a Luca Faloni jacket look like?’: this suede bomber marks the brand’s first foray into outerwear‘Made for years to come’, this lightweight bomber marks Luca Faloni’s entry into outerwear and encapsulates the label’s provenance-focused approach
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025 highlights: Dolce & Gabbana to Bottega VenetaWallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss selects the best of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025, from Dolce & Gabbana’s homage to Madonna to childlike wonder at Bottega Veneta
-
Rovi Lucca is the Milanese label creating ‘elevated workwear for garden lovers’Rooted in Italian craft, Bradley Seymour and Fabrizio Taliani’s horticulturally inspired Rovi Lucca finds inspiration in the gardens of Lucca, Tuscany
-
Luca Magliano takes Wallpaper* on a tour Bologna, the home of his non-conformist fashion labelLuca Magliano gives Wallpaper* an insider’s guide to Bologna, Italy, the lifeblood of his on-the-rise label – from a museum of queer history to a mystical cemetery (and plenty of gelato)
-
Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025: what to expectNext week sees the arrival of Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025, with stops in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Here, our comprehensive guide to the month, from Alaïa’s arrival in New York to Alessandro Michele’s Valentino debut
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2025 highlights: Prada to ZegnaWallpaper* picks the best moments from Milan Fashion Week Men‘s S/S 2025, from 15 years of MSGM to Prada’s celebration of youth, and an appearance from Mads Mikkelsen at Zegna
