Aussie flare: meet Kym Ellery, the Antipodean wunderkind taking on Paris

'I have loved David Bowie for as long as I can remember,' says Perth-born designer Kym Ellery in reference to the singer that inspired her pre-fall collection. 'His music seems to have always just been there; a soundtrack to my life.' In fact, Ziggy Stardust inspired the Australian's first foray into design (when she switched from a successful career as market editor at Australian style magazine RUSSH), and his influence has stuck since her first collection seven years ago. 'His music makes me feel bold and alive,' she says.
Her pre-fall collection, signaled a new mood for the designer known for her long, lean silhouettes that play with proportion and exaggerated volume. Instead, her look became streamlined, sharpened in focus. 'I think that in your 30's the tempo changes, and not in a bad way. It feels more exciting to be serious and I love the idea of making serious feel sensual.' This manifested in fluted sleeve tops that revealed shoulders, strapless bodices in rich golden brocade and rib knit polo necks that cling to the body. In contrast, tailoring introduced rigor that felt like new territory. 'It's what I want to wear in between seasons,' says Ellery of the slim cut blazers, and sharp, narrow trousers that were cut in silk twill and angora wool. The monochrome palette was energised with dark gold brocade and shiny silver outerwear. Not that her now signature flares were entirely neglected.
An artful detail brought the strict clothes to life: Ellery's artist mother, Debra, hand-made the special blue ceramic glazed buttons that adorned jackets and coats. 'My mother taught me so much of what I know creatively and she has devoted so much of her life to enabling other people's creativity. I love to collaborate with her to encourage her to not forget her own artistic expression. I know her aesthetic well and love to cross-pollinate it with mine to create something new with a fresh perspective.'
Debra similarly left her fingerprints on her daughter's A/W 2015 collection, also influenced by Austrian painter Egon Schiele. Presented on schedule at Kenzo Takada's former Paris apartment, Ellery is one of only three Australian designers to be invited by the Chambre Syndical du Pret-a-Porter Couturiers et des Creatures de Modes to show during Paris Fashion Week. 'Paris is the brand's natural habitat. I take all of my collections to Paris, so I'm there four times a year. It's where I feel most content as a person. I design with a global vision and the whole world comes to Paris to find fashion. It is an organic relationship between the city and the industry. That in itself is inspiring to me.'
'I think that in your 30's the tempo changes, and not in a bad way. It feels more exciting to be serious and I love the idea of making serious feel sensual' Ellery explained
A collaboration between the designer and her artist mother, Debra led to homemade detailing. Blue ceramic glazed buttons adorned jackets and coats, giving a hint of colour to her monochrome collection
Her mother's artistic influence continued into her A/W 2015 collection with minimalist white ceramic disks adorning the clothing.' I know her aesthetic well and love to cross-pollinate it with mine to create something new with a fresh perspective'
This artistic streak continued with Austrian artist, Egon Schiele being noted by the Australian designer
Architectural bell-bottomed trousers took centre stage throughout the collection. Paired with longline tops the overall design showcased Ellery's signature elongated aesthetic
Other must-see pieces included a metallic strapless fringed dress teamed with loosely tailored black trousers
Presented on schedule at Kenzo Takada's former Paris apartment, Ellery is one of only three Australian designers to be invited by the Chambre Syndical du Pret-a-Porter Couturiers et des Creatures de Modes to show during Paris Fashion Week
'Paris is the brand's natural habitat. I take all of my collections to Paris, so I'm there four times a year'
The collection highlighted the designers eye for detail with numerous understated flourishes
'It's (Paris) where I feel most content as a person. I design with a global vision and the whole world comes to Paris to find fashion. It is an organic relationship between the city and the industry. That in itself is inspiring to me'
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Tilly is a British writer, editor and digital consultant based in New York, covering luxury fashion, jewellery, design, culture, art, travel, wellness and more. An alumna of Central Saint Martins, she is Contributing Editor for Wallpaper* and has interviewed a cross section of design legends including Sir David Adjaye, Samuel Ross, Pamela Shamshiri and Piet Oudolf for the magazine.
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twist
The EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960s
A new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published