Architecturally-aligned bag brands for raising up your wardrobe
The Wallpaper* edit of sculpturally sublime emerging bag brands – S. Joon, Osoi, Numen and Yuzefi
Focusing on folds, honing in on hardware and putting the spotlight on shape — these bag brands know exactly what we are currently craving. With an architecturally aligned design approach, these fashion accessories have an air of the unexpected.
S. Joon
Although UK-based S Joon founder Sahar Asvandi never intentionally aimed for unusual shapes, this is more often than not where she ends up. The bag brand's playful references to everyday objects have resulted in styles that aren't merely unconventional but innovative. ‘The Tulip came to life because I had been gifted flowers for my engagement and they happened to be on my kitchen table as I was sketching', she says. ‘I take inspiration from so many things — the arts, sculpture, architecture, people... My designs are often born from moments of playing around with forms or from real-life experiences.'
Sculptural shapes and elegant textures come together in Asvandi's contemporary and minimalist design approach, and this week, S Joon has launched on Net-a-porter. Bags such as the Lunar bag, the ultimate crossbody companion for a weekend brunch, or the Tear Drop, perfect to have around your wrist on a night out, are as classic as they are playful. Our personal favourite is pared-back Shopper, a reductionist blend of circular and rectangular forms, which will elevate any morning run for milk and the weekend papers.
Osoi
With an androgynous affinity, and an aspiration to create collections of contemporary classics, Osoi's multi-use designs manage to be both everlasting and of-the-moment. Named after the Japanese word for ‘unhurried', the Korean brand takes the concept to heart and is committment to honing Asia's renowned affinity for craft.
With a background in architecture, creative director Heejin Kang has a love for structural shapes. ‘Hardware is essential, and the design, quality, material and colour must be taken into consideration. It is one of the main aspects that could make or break a design' she says. Originally planning to launch with shoes, an unforeseen production delay led to the creation of the brand's signature style Brot, named after the German word for bread. The trademark model features a ‘Kiss Lock Closure' – a hinged metal frame that contrasts against the bag's soft leather structure. Wear it over the shoulder, as a belt bag, or crossbody, the choice is yours.
Numen
The most classic out of our four brands is Numen, which defines itself as a label for grown-ups. Liberated from any trends and fashion fads, founder Nicola Cliemas draws on the clean lines of modernist architecture when she designs her bags. ‘We are surrounded by architecture. How rooms, buildings and spaces are laid out contributes greatly to our well-being', she says. Therefore the architectonic approach covers the entire spectrum of production, from the choice of leather, the colours, down to each and every seam. A Numen bag needs to be just right.
A fascination for disparity is what ultimately led to Cliema's distinct design, combining a rounded bottom with a sharp-edged top. ‘Furniture, especially armchairs, chairs or chaise lounges, which have fewer restrictions when it comes to form, excites me. I continuously try to slip those elements of contrasts into my designs', she says. We especially crave the half-moon shaped, duo-toned crossbody bag in cream and white, giving us that air of sophistication any grown-up woman wants.
Yuzefi
Delving into surrealist tropes, using visual trickery and tactile form, founder Naza Yousefi wants her bags to make you look, feel, and think. ‘It was an uphill battle to get the initial prototypes right as they looked nothing like your classic handbags, and so I ended up doing the development under the supervision of an artisan,' she says. Working cleverly with proportions, Yousefi entices you to really examine the designs. The Edith bag, as an example, uses a trompe l'oeil effect – creating an inverted perspective which allows the shopper to see the whole bag at a single glance. 'I can be quite omnivorous in my search for newness; we look at a lot of references from vintage to interiors and art, then funnel those through a subtle surrealist lens to make the unexpected into something familiar', says Yousefi.
Working with new tactility, the hardware of the bags aides the neoteric shapes. The Loaf bag is a structured bowling style with a unique pull-out opening mechanism that allows for a new play with a seemingly classic shape. The Maude opens up with its own surprise; a magnetic frame with tactile intrigue; and the popular Dip style uses a collapsible magnetic opening. If clasps and closures are your Achilles heel, Yuzefi will definitely hit the spot.
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
A celestial New York exhibition showcases Roman and Williams’ mastery of lighting
Lauded design studio Roman and Williams is exhibiting 100 variations of its lighting ‘family tree’ inside a historic Tribeca space
By Dan Howarth Published
-
‘He immortalised the birth of the supermodel’: inside Dior’s career-spanning retrospective of photographer Peter Lindbergh
Olivier Flaviano, curator and head of Paris’ La Galerie Dior, talks us through a new Peter Lindbergh retrospective, which celebrates the seminal German photographer’s longtime relationship with the French house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Take a bite: Laila Gohar and The Luxury Collection’s ‘Cakes & Candles’ are a sweet treat for the senses
Laila Gohar’s six cake-inspired candles draw on The Luxury Collection’s hotels around the world – where guests can enjoy matching edible confections
By Tianna Williams Published
-
‘They have total freedom’: inside the Hermès Fashion Accessories Prize for young designers
By Jack Moss Published
-
Akris’ latest bag communicates aesthetics through function
Designed by Akris creative director Albert Kriemler, the new ‘Anouk Messenger’ adds to his growing range of discerning, artistically-inclined handbags
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Celine Haute Maroquinerie is an extraordinary celebration of Parisian savoir-faire
Drawing on the art of maroquinerie – leather-making – Hedi Slimane’s new collection utilises exceptional craftsmanship to create one-of-a-kind leather goods and handbags that are ‘cultural, personal, rare’
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Savette bags: ‘We don’t want to give up the idea of having beautiful possessions’
New York designer with a track record for creating stealth ‘it' bags launches own label – no surprise these handbag designs are selling out
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Palm Angels debuts logo-splashed sunglasses collection
The skate culture-centric label launches its 90s-era range of unisex sunglasses
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Colourful sunglasses for cooling off in style
Summer's most eye-catching colourful sunglasses are found in a rainbow of seductive shades, and are a sure fire way for styling out a heatwave. Life just got a little brighter (and hotter)!
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Fendi Baguette bag gets artisanal update
The Fendi Baguette ‘Hand in Hand' project celebrates Italian craftsmanship, with adorned iterations of the classic bag conceived by local artisans from Liguria to Piedmont
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Advene’s debut bag is forever
‘We want our debut bag to stand the test of wear, weather, and time’
By Laura Hawkins Last updated