Bold beginnings: New York brand Trademark puts its stamp on the contemporary fashion market
It's not often that the concept for a fashion label begins with the branding itself. 'We actually did all the branding before we even started working on the product,' says Louisa Burch, who launched American label Trademark together with her sister Pookie four seasons ago in New York. 'That exercise really gave us the understanding of bringing all of those details into the product.'
The pair may be only 26, and 30-years-old respectively, but they grew up with deep ties to the fashion industry - their father being entrepreneur Chris Burch and stepmother designer Tory Burch. 'It was obviously very inspirational and a great learning experience,' Pookie says of their youth, which offered a backseat view of the rapid vertical expansion of their stepmother's fashion empire.
It may therefore come as less of a surprise that after only one season the duo opened their first store in New York's SoHo, working with Stockholm-based architecture firm Bozarthfornell. The multi-floor, 2,500 square foot Grand Street boutique, is rooted in the same nostalgic minimalism that Trademark have quickly become known for in their women's, men's and accessories collections. 'For us the retail store really felt like the right way to get the whole concept to come together,' adds Pookie, who oversees the brand's creative direction. Their sights are now set on a second property in California - Los Angeles or San Francisco - depending on the site. 'Online, San Fran is our second biggest market after New York,' explains Louisa, who looks after the business' logistics and sales.
As for their branding? They worked with Paris-based, creative and art direction agency Consorti and Ohlman (whose clients include CR Fashion Book, APC and Steidl) on their 'cubic' logo and now collaborate with Giovanni Bianco's New York-based GB65 firm on their campaigns. 'I think the biggest thing honestly was that we wanted it to feel - from the bag to the label to every piece of clothing - like something that didn't exist,' sums up Pookie.
ADDRESS
Trademark
95 Grand St, New York
NY 10013
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
The Wallpaper* guide to party dressing with abandon
Decadent get-ups to let your sartorial hair down this festive season, ready for a month-long marathon of hedonism and indulgence
By Jack Moss Published
-
C-Next Designers Europe hosted by Cosentino is forging the future of the interior design industry
220 interior design professionals from 30 countries attended the invite-only event in Almeria for two days of factory tours, workshops and panel discussions
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Jaguar reveals its new graphic identity ahead of a long-awaited total brand reboot
Jaguar’s new ethos is Exuberant Modernism, encapsulated by a new visual language that draws on fine art, fashion and architecture
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 highlights: Tory Burch to Michael Kors
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss selects the best of New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 in our ongoing round-up, from a reinvention of sportswear at Tory Burch to Michael Kors’ Italian escape
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
‘I feel like a new designer’: inside the renaissance of Tory Burch
Tory Burch sits down with Jack Moss to talk about her creative rebirth, which prizes the experimental and the unexpected, and has seen her garner a new generation of trend-hungry devotees
By Jack Moss Published
-
Tennis fashion for serving a style ace this summer
As Wimbledon begins on Monday (1 July 2024), the fashion brands serving up tennis style this summer, from Gucci’s 1970s-inspired capsule collection to a Loewe T-shirt from ‘Challengers’
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Humberto Leon’s Tory Burch pop-up shows a playful new side of the American power brand
Tory Burch’s colourful new Humberto Leon-designed pop-up on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles shows the ongoing evolution of the American brand, which now thrives on the unexpected
By Mary Cleary Published
-
Francesca DiMattio and Tory Burch on their shared passion for porcelain
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated