Catwalk tour: the top Men's fashion week venues of S/S 2014

Milan's Palazzo Mezzanotte were emblazoned with moving images of a deep blue sky, superimposed with geometric elements that echoed the forms of the modular white seating.
(Image credit: press)
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Salvatore Ferragamo
The screens that framed the show space at Milan's Palazzo Mezzanotte were emblazoned with moving images of a deep blue sky, superimposed with geometric elements that echoed the forms of the modular white seating.

Writer: Rosa Bertoli

Large show space at the Tennis Club de Paris in white, with a mirrored labyrinth guiding the models' path


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Dior Homme

 The Villa Eugénie team dressed the large show space at the Tennis Club de Paris in white, with a mirrored labyrinth guiding the models' path. The reflections played with Kris Van Assche's perfectly executed geometric minimalism.

Cargo installtion by Johanna Seelemann, with fruit on an aluminium structure


(Image credit: Johanna Seelemann and Björn Steinar Blumenstein)

Paul Smith

 Pink was the hue of the season for Paul Smith, appearing in every shade on his finely-tailored collection. The Halle Freyssinet also glowed pink for the occasion, with a bright candy-coloured catwalk and a more muted rose shade for the walls.

Illuminated olive tree projected magical shadows on the surrounding space.


(Image credit: press)

Dolce & Gabbana

 For their latest show, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana looked south to their homeland Sicily once again. Boys walked down the catwalk outfitted with garments bearing prints of the island's temples, while behind them an illuminated olive tree projected magical shadows on the surrounding space.

Orchestra played by the models' entrance to the catwalk, while large prints of 1960s images by photographer Terry O'Neill were installed in an exhibition space behind the catwalk.


(Image credit: press)

Hackett

 The label took over the Victorian arcades of Old Billingsgate Market for its London Collections: Men show. The London Philharmonic Orchestra played by the models' entrance to the catwalk, while large prints of 1960s images by photographer Terry O'Neill were installed in an exhibition space behind the catwalk.

Catwalk with large prints of 1960s images


(Image credit: press)

Hackett

The label took over the Victorian arcades of Old Billingsgate Market for its London Collections: Men show. The London Philharmonic Orchestra played by the models' entrance to the catwalk, while large prints of 1960s images by photographer Terry O'Neill were installed in an exhibition space behind the catwalk.

Large screens encircled the horseshoe-shaped catwalk, on which a video (shot and edited by Johan Soderberg) was projected, showing the rhythmical movements of Zegna's looms at work,


(Image credit: press)

Ermenegildo Zegna

 Opening Milan Fashion Week, Stefano Pilati's debut at Ermenegildo Zegna was hosted in a large industrial space in one of the city's up and coming areas. Large screens encircled the horseshoe-shaped catwalk, on which a video (shot and edited by Johan Soderberg) was projected, showing the rhythmical movements of Zegna's looms at work, interspersed with footage of a solo pianist.

Large screens encircled the horseshoe-shaped catwalk, on which a video (shot and edited by Johan Soderberg) was projected, showing the rhythmical movements of Zegna's looms at work, interspersed with footage of a solo pianist.


(Image credit: press)

Ermenegildo Zegna

Opening Milan Fashion Week, Stefano Pilati's debut at Ermenegildo Zegna was hosted in a large industrial space in one of the city's up and coming areas. Large screens encircled the horseshoe-shaped catwalk, on which a video (shot and edited by Johan Soderberg) was projected, showing the rhythmical movements of Zegna's looms at work, interspersed with footage of a solo pianist.

Models stood on simple black blocks that blended with the floor, with the London skyline and the building's iconic architecture serving as a perfect backdrop.


(Image credit: press)

Hardy Amies

 Savile Row tailoring house Hardy Amies held its presentation at the top of London's Gherkin. Models stood on simple black blocks that blended with the floor, with the London skyline and the building's iconic architecture serving as a perfect backdrop.

Catwalk featuring an outer rectangle and three intersecting paths running through it, with transparent Perspex screens placed in the middle of the set up, referencing the geometric elements of the collection.


(Image credit: press)

Jil Sander 

Every season, Thierry Dreyfus plays with the theme of white at Jil Sander's intimate Milanese show space. For the German designer's latest show, the catwalk featured an outer rectangle and three intersecting paths running through it, with transparent Perspex screens placed in the middle of the set up, referencing the geometric elements of the collection.

Catwalk featuring an outer rectangle and three intersecting paths running through it, with transparent Perspex screens placed in the middle of the set up, referencing the geometric elements of the collection.


(Image credit: press)

Jil Sander

 Every season, Thierry Dreyfus plays with the theme of white at Jil Sander's intimate Milanese show space. For the German designer's latest show, the catwalk featured an outer rectangle and three intersecting paths running through it, with transparent Perspex screens placed in the middle of the set up, referencing the geometric elements of the collection.

Simple seating set-up was centered around the multi-toned wooden catwalk, whose lines neatly juxtaposed the diagonal stripes of the parquet flooring.


(Image credit: press)

Valentino

 The Hotel Salomon De Rothschild's frescoed halls served as the backdrop for Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri's Valentino collection once again. The simple seating set-up was centered around the multi-toned wooden catwalk, whose lines neatly juxtaposed the diagonal stripes of the parquet flooring.

Models dressed in a contemporary take on cricket clothing marched across an AstroTurf field - with lines of cricket balls outlining its edges


(Image credit: press)

Moncler Gamme Bleu

 Thom Browne recreated a miniature cricket ground for his latest Moncler spectacle. Inside Milan's Padiglione Visconti, models dressed in a contemporary take on cricket clothing marched across an AstroTurf field - with lines of cricket balls outlining its edges. They congregated at the end of the 'field' for a group photograph.

Models dressed in a contemporary take on cricket clothing marched across an AstroTurf field - with lines of cricket balls outlining its edge


(Image credit: press)

Moncler Gamme Bleu

 Thom Browne recreated a miniature cricket ground for his latest Moncler spectacle. Inside Milan's Padiglione Visconti, models dressed in a contemporary take on cricket clothing marched across an AstroTurf field - with lines of cricket balls outlining its edges. They congregated at the end of the 'field' for a group photograph.

Backdrop of Rei Kawakubo's highly symbolic, dark collection. The moody interiors matched the punk vibes of the models' looks.


(Image credit: press)

Comme des Garçons 

The rusty bowels of the Espace Vendôme were the backdrop of Rei Kawakubo's highly symbolic, dark collection. The moody interiors matched the punk vibes of the models' looks.

A ghost town of buildings that referenced the collection's prints.


(Image credit: press)

Prada 

For her latest show, Miuccia Prada took tropical prints and gave them a gloomy, subdued feel. The set - conceived once again by OMA's think tank AMO - represented a 'menacing paradise', a ghost town of buildings that referenced the collection's prints.

A ghost town of buildings that referenced the collection's prints


(Image credit: press)

Prada

 For her latest show, Miuccia Prada took tropical prints and gave them a gloomy, subdued feel. The set - conceived once again by OMA's think tank AMO - represented a 'menacing paradise', a ghost town of buildings that referenced the collection's prints.

Middle-Eastern paradise for its presentation, kitted out with lanterns, floaty fabrics and lush vegetation


(Image credit: press)

Roberto Cavalli

 The label transformed the courtyard of a 15th century Milanese palazzo on via Cappuccio into a Middle-Eastern paradise for its presentation, kitted out with lanterns, floaty fabrics and lush vegetation. The collection was shown on mannequins and large photographic prints by Rankin, which were arranged in the arcades around the garden.

Gaia Trussardi's set transported show-goers to the desert, with stylised dunes painted on canvas and a sand-coloured catwalk.


(Image credit: press)

Trussardi

 For her debut show at the helm of her family's fashion house, Gaia Trussardi's set transported show-goers to the desert, with stylised dunes painted on canvas and a sand-coloured catwalk.

Medusa logo at the top of the runway was reworked in lime green and bright yellow shades. Flanked by large trees


(Image credit: press)

Versace 

The catwalk at Versace clearly referenced Donatella's collection, with the same asymmetrical fluorescent strips of colour that made their way onto models' skin and clothing also found on the white catwalk. The Medusa logo at the top of the runway was reworked in lime green and bright yellow shades. Flanked by large trees, the energetic set was once again housed in Versace's Milanese HQ on Via Gesù.

Spartan benches on each side of the space, while the floors were covered in AstroTurf,


(Image credit: press)

Junya Watanabe

 The models walked down the halls of a former brass musical instruments factory in Paris. Guests were seated on spartan benches on each side of the space, while the floors were covered in AstroTurf, which bounced a green glow onto the models and surroundings.

A cross-shaped catwalk was installed in the Z Zegna's Milanese headquarters, which carved out grey seating areas. Walls were paneled with three-dimensional reproductions of the house pentagram logo


(Image credit: press)

Z Zegna

 A cross-shaped catwalk was installed in the Z Zegna's Milanese headquarters, which carved out grey seating areas. Walls were paneled with three-dimensional reproductions of the house pentagram logo.

A giant metallic screen was installed on one side of the catwalk in the otherwise bare industrial space of Halle Freyssinet


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Dries Van Noten 

The house's set was a shining affair. A giant metallic screen was installed on one side of the catwalk in the otherwise bare industrial space of Halle Freyssinet. The reflections glimmered on the concrete floors and the flower-print clad models. A live soundtrack came courtesy of drummer Cindy Blackman Santana.

Catwalk was arranged in the garden's pathways, lined by rows of chairs.


(Image credit: press)

Hermès 

The summery catwalk was set amid the gardens of the Couvent Des Cordeliers. Taking full advantage of the landscape architecture, the catwalk was arranged in the garden's pathways, lined by rows of chairs.

Catwalk transformed into a smoky Turkish gentlemen's club, featuring a collage of ottoman carpets.


(Image credit: press)

Umit Benan

 Benan's latest collection was a celebration of his heritage, with a plethora of Turkish references. The set, housed in Milan's Teatro Franco Parenti, was transformed into a smoky Turkish gentlemen's club, featuring a collage of ottoman carpets for the catwalk. A traditional orchestra provided the soundtrack for the show.

geometric carpet of fresh fruit. Surrounding this was a series of bars serving raw organic juices


(Image credit: press)

Kenzo

 Guests arriving at the Académie Fratellini were greeted by a geometric carpet of fresh fruit. Surrounding this was a series of bars serving raw organic juices from Bob's Cold Press to show-goers. The show itself, with scenography by the Villa Eugenie team, was held inside the main hall of the Parisian circus academy and had a more intimate feel, with subdued lighting and a discreet geometric pattern on the circular catwalk.

Geometric carpet of fresh fruit


(Image credit: press)

Kenzo 

Guests arriving at the Académie Fratellini were greeted by a geometric carpet of fresh fruit. Surrounding this was a series of bars serving raw organic juices from Bob's Cold Press to show-goers. The show itself, with scenography by the Villa Eugenie team, was held inside the main hall of the Parisian circus academy and had a more intimate feel, with subdued lighting and a discreet geometric pattern on the circular catwalk.

Parisian circus academy showing catwalk with intimate feel, with subdued lighting and a discreet geometric pattern on the floor


(Image credit: press)

Kenzo 

Guests arriving at the Académie Fratellini were greeted by a geometric carpet of fresh fruit. Surrounding this was a series of bars serving raw organic juices from Bob's Cold Press to show-goers. The show itself, with scenography by the Villa Eugenie team, was held inside the main hall of the Parisian circus academy and had a more intimate feel, with subdued lighting and a discreet geometric pattern on the circular catwalk.

The École Militaire de Paris with 18th century garden.


(Image credit: press)

Thom Browne 

The École Militaire de Paris was a perfect match for the American designer’s exuberant take on army attire. Browne's eccentric soldiers marched through the academy’s porches and onto the neatly-manicured cloistered 18th century garden.

Photographs were arranged around the arcades of the Milanese academy's inner courtyard


(Image credit: press)

Brioni 

A celebration of Rome in Milan - the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera played host to Collier Schorr's images of the Brioni S/S 2014 collection shot inside Roman landmark, Villa Medici. The dreamy photographs were arranged around the arcades of the Milanese academy's inner courtyard, the soft pastel tones beautifully matching the architecture.

A celebration of Rome in Milan - the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera played host to Collier Schorr's images of the Brioni S/S 2014 collection shot inside Roman landmark, Villa Medici. The dreamy photographs were arranged around the arcades of the Milanese academy's inner courtyard, the soft pastel tones beautifully matching the architecture.

Photographs arranged around the arcades of the Milanese academy's inner courtyard


(Image credit: press)

Brioni

 A celebration of Rome in Milan - the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera played host to Collier Schorr's images of the Brioni S/S 2014 collection shot inside Roman landmark, Villa Medici. The dreamy photographs were arranged around the arcades of the Milanese academy's inner courtyard, the soft pastel tones beautifully matching the architecture.

Poles with moving lighting panels projecting a dim light on the models' path, and a further set of dusky lights serving as backdrop


(Image credit: press)

Saint Laurent

 Since taking over the house of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane has shown a fondness for experimenting with lighting. This season, his catwalk at the Grand Palais was flanked by extendable poles with moving lighting panels projecting a dim light on the models' path, and a further set of dusky lights serving as backdrop

Extendable poles with moving lighting panels projecting a dim light on the models' path, and a further set of dusky lights serving as backdrop


(Image credit: press)

Saint Laurent

 Since taking over the house of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane has shown a fondness for experimenting with lighting. This season, his catwalk at the Grand Palais was flanked by extendable poles with moving lighting panels projecting a dim light on the models' path, and a further set of dusky lights serving as backdrop

Portable gas filling station he designed in the 1970s for the catwalk


(Image credit: press)

Raf Simons

 Raf Simons presented his Spring catwalk show in Paris' Gagosian Gallery Le Bourget, where his collection was revealed alongside works by Jean Prouvé and Alexander Calder. Models weaved their way in between Prouvé's 'Station Essence Total' (pictured left), while some of the audience were seated within 'Pavillon Démontable' (pictured right), the portable gas filling station he designed in the 1970s

Model weaving in between Prouvé's 'Station Essence Total', while some of the audience were seated within 'Pavillon Démontable' (pictured right), the portable gas filling station he designed in the 1970s


(Image credit: press)

Raf Simons 

Raf Simons presented his Spring catwalk show in Paris' Gagosian Gallery Le Bourget, where his collection was revealed alongside works by Jean Prouvé and Alexander Calder. Models weaved their way in between Prouvé's 'Station Essence Total' (pictured left), while some of the audience were seated within 'Pavillon Démontable' (pictured right), the portable gas filling station he designed in the 1970s

Two models sitting on chairs in suits with binoculars


(Image credit: press)

Savile Row

 An army of navy blue, tweeds and pastel shades conquered the Lord’s cricket ground for the Savile Row presentation in association with Woolmark. The British tailoring houses joined forces and took over the Lord’s Pavilion, to mount an impressive sartorial pageant. Leisurely sitting on white field-side benches or drinking on the upper terrace, the models offered a spectacle aptly suited to the ‘modern gentleman’ identity of the collections.

Models in suits Leisurely sitting on white field-side benches or drinking on the upper terrace


(Image credit: press)

Savile Row

 An army of navy blue, tweeds and pastel shades conquered the Lord’s cricket ground for the Savile Row presentation in association with Woolmark. The British tailoring houses joined forces and took over the Lord’s Pavilion, to mount an impressive sartorial pageant. Leisurely sitting on white field-side benches or drinking on the upper terrace, the models offered a spectacle aptly suited to the ‘modern gentleman’ identity of the collections.

Minimal tent with panelled lighting, evocative of a Victorian greenhouse, in the romantic rose garden


(Image credit: press)

Cerruti

 For his latest effort at Cerruti 1881, Aldo Maria Camillo chose a venue of contrasts. His team set up a minimal tent with panelled lighting, evocative of a Victorian greenhouse, in the romantic rose gardens of Paris’ Institut National des Jeunes Sourds. The rain falling on the clear tent provided the perfect counterpoint to the moody undertones of the collection.

Video corridor displaying projected details of its parkas


(Image credit: press)

CP Company

 For its second London Collections: Men outing, Italian brand CP Company took guests on a futuristic journey through a video corridor displaying projected details of its parkas.

The bright Sala Bocconi was used as a show space, with a mirrored gold catwalk running through the elongated, gilded arcade


(Image credit: press)

Ports 1961

 The 18th century Rococo halls of Milan’s Palazzo Bocconi played host to the Ports 1961 show. The bright Sala Bocconi was used as a show space, with a mirrored gold catwalk running through the elongated, gilded arcade, discreetly reflecting the collection’s modern cuts and fabrics.

Parisian school main hall left bare with the space flooded with natural light


(Image credit: press)

Lanvin

 Once again, Lucas Ossendrijver chose the Ecole Superieure des Beaux Arts to present his collection. The architectural elements of the Parisian school’s main hall were left bare, and the space flooded with natural light, beautifully enhancing the garments’ exquisite details.

Models walking in a line down catwalk in Kensington Gardens.


(Image credit: press)

Burberry Prorsum

 It was a momentous season for Burberry menswear, with the brand returning to show in its home town after over ten years in Milan. Christopher Bailey's boys strutted their stuff in the brand's beautiful showspace in Kensington Gardens.

Abandoned canal-side space near London’s King’s Cross railway with an ominous cloud of thick white smoke and models walking


(Image credit: press)

Alexander McQueen

 Sarah Burton chose an abandoned canal-side space near London’s King’s Cross railway to present her Spring menswear effort. The gloomy, run-down setting was enhanced by an ominous cloud of thick white smoke that encircled the models as they walked down a textured cobblestone pavement.

Jack Moss
Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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