Fresh from unveiling its Phillip K Smith III-designed installation ‘Open Sky’ at Salone del Mobile 2018, COS has partnered with Dia:Beacon in New York to support the long-term installation of octogenarian artist Dorothea Rockburne’s mathematically-focused artworks. The installation – set to be expanded towards the end of the year – has also inspired a men’s and women’s capsule collection, which draws on Rockburne’s affinity for graphic shapes and her experimentation with folded and torn paper.
© Dorothea Rockburne/Artist Rights Society (ARS), New York. © Chamberlain/2018 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn © Palermo/2018 Fairweather & Fairweather LTD / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York © Anne Truitt/ Bridgeman, New York
‘I first saw Dorothea Rockburne’s work in New York in 2014 when visiting MoMA, and was immediately drawn to the subtle power of her aesthetic,’ says COS creative director Karin Gustafsson of the Canada-born artist. ‘She has a beautiful way of playing with line, function, and form, and adopts fascinating methods to using and applying materials in unexpected ways.’ The resulting collection includes shirts with origami-like folds at the hem, and tote bags resembling crinkled paper. ‘We drew much inspiration from the crisp folded lines of Rockburne’s “Locus” series,’ Gustafsson adds, of the series of six etchings made between 1972 and 1975, created from heavy paper creased with folds, and printed with white ink.
The long-term installation at Dia:Beacon features Rockburne’s works from the late 1960s and early 1970s, and celebrates the mathematical approach which the artist took to her designs of this period. Fascinated by the concept of set theory, she also has a doctorate in mathematics. It includes ‘Tropical Tan’ (1967-68), an artwork made from four sheets of pig iron, creased along the diagonal axis and partially coated with wrinkle-finish paint, and a new version of 'Domain of the Variable' (1971–72), a graphic set-based work in crude oil, chipboard and paper, which will be installed directly onto the exhibition space.
‘Explain it, I can’t,’ Rockburne told COS of her aesthetic approach. ‘That’s why I do it, it’s not explainable in language.’ The fold-focused and draped silhouettes of the COS capsule collection also denotes another sublime design alphabet.
The capsule collection takes inspiration from Rockburne’s mathematical approach to art, and her use of everyday materials like paper
A visual moodboard for the capsule collection.
Dorothea Rockburne, Tropical Tan, 1967–68.
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the COS website and the Dia:Beacon website
-
The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
-
London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
-
Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
-
Dover Street Market London celebrates Futura's graffiti artA Comme des Garçons SHIRT installation celebrates the spray painted style of the New York-born artist
-
Linda Tegg creates a living installation for Jil Sander at its Milanese HQ -
Source code: fragrance power duo Ostens are rediscovering perfume’s pure hit -
United Visual Artists lights up Christopher Bailey’s final Burberry show -
Antonio Marras shares his rich artistic oeuvre for the first time -
Agnes Martin’s grids grace the Guggenheim and a COS collection -
Sight and scent: Faye Toogood creates a 'Blackpepper' install for Comme des Garçons
