We’ve always had eyes for Delfina Delettrez, the Italian designer whose eponymous jewellery label turned ten this year. So much so that when the designer heard we were launching Precious Index, our debut watches and jewellery supplement, she suggested creating a special piece for Wallpaper* to celebrate both occasions.
‘I created the “Eyes on Me Brooch” as a tactile example of how my aesthetics have evolved,’ Delettrez says of the dazzling white gold, diamond and pearl piece. The design also reflects her decade-long fascination with the eye as a precious symbol. The pieces in her signature ‘Anatomik’ collection for example, features floating noses, lips and eyes in bright enamels and diamonds. ‘My first designs were much more cartoon-like in form,’ she says. ‘Today, the shape has become sharper with a focus on the facets of the stones themselves.’
‘Earclipse Eye/Lips Bracelet’ in 18ct gold with diamonds, sapphires and rubies
The attention to cut is emphasised in Delettrez’s most recent ‘360°’ collection. It features earrings and rings with precious stones that pierce through pavé encrusted gold bands, so that they appear to be suspended in space. ‘The stones have been set using an ancient wrought setting, and positioned upside down,’ explains Delettrez. ‘They take on another dimension and become eternal prisms of light.’
The interplay between history and modernity is essential to Delettrez’s aesthetic. ‘My eye references come from a romantic standpoint,’ she says. ‘As a child, I was told a story of the Georgian and Victorian tradition, of women sewing and secretly hiding miniature eyes insider their lover’s clothes to keep watch on them while they were away. They acted as amulets of protection.’
The ‘Eyes on Me’ brooch has a more futuristic feel. After all Delettrez has also referenced UFOs as inspiration, and presented the swirling rings in her ‘HANDroid’ collection on mechanical hands. ‘I wanted “Eyes on Me" to be as pure as possible and to have an almost robotic look,’ she says. ‘After all, as befits Wallpaper’s view, the designs we make today will be the classics of tomorrow.’
A version of this article originally appeared in the Precious Index, our new watches and jewellery supplement (see W*218)
'Polifemo Piercing Earring' in 18ct gold, with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and freshwater pearl
Left, 'Reptilian Eye Ring' in gold plated silver with glass and pearls. Right, Delfina Delettrez
'Portrait Brooch' in 18ct gold, with diamonds, rubies and freshwater pearls
'Eyes and Pearl Necklace' in gold and silver, with cognac diamonds, pearls, glass and enamel
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Delfina Delettrez website
-
Audemars Piguet and Kaws have created the Royal Oak Concept watch we didn't know we neededThe Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' is slick wrist-worn art
-
A friendly rivalry coloured by kinship: Wendy Maruyama and Tom Loeser on their two-artist show'I wanted to make furniture, just not traditional furniture, but weird furniture,' says Wendy Maruyama on ‘Colorama’, a two-artist show presented at design gallery Superhouse (until 11 January 2025)
-
Tranquil and secluded, Lemaire’s new Tokyo flagship exudes a sense of homeIn Tokyo’s Ebisu neighbourhood, Lemaire’s tranquil new store sees the French brand take over a former 1960s home. Co-artistic directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran tell Wallpaper* more
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edgeAs the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
