Dior’s Kim Jones is the curatorial king of collaboration, but for A/W 2022 the men’s artistic director of the French maison was most preoccupied with celebrating the history of the brand’s founder Monsieur Dior. The label’s show took place in Paris on the birthday of Christian Dior – who was born 21 January 1905 – and celebrated both 75 years since the label's first show, and 25 years since it first collaborated with milliner Stephen Jones.
Kim Jones’ collection riffed on signatures synonymous with the brand: Monsieur Dior’s affection for Trianon grey, with which he decorated the walls of his Avenue Montaigne salons; and the brand’s famed New Look, which shocked the fashion world when it was showcased in 1947, with its cinched, waist-celebrating volumes and superfluous use of fabric. Both were celebrated in the Dior A/W 2022 menswear offering, which featured soft menswear interpretations of the Bar Jacket silhouette and looks in sumptuous shades of grey, from tracksuits to tailoring.
Dior A/W 2022 and recreating Pont Alexandre III
Just as Kim Jones turned his attention to the heritage of the house, so too he looked to the topographical history of its home city. The collection was unveiled on a long, majestic runway, which recreated Paris’ historic bridge, Pont Alexandre III, and offered a cinematic, sweeping vision of the city.
The bridge, which was built in celebration of the 1900 Exposition Universelle (or Paris Exposition), and is a Seine-crossing stalwart of the city’s skyline, connects the Grand Palais on the Left Bank and the Petit Palais on the Right Bank. Named after Tsar Alexander III, it was designed by the architects Joseph Cassien-Bernard and Gaston Cousin in the Art Nouveau style, and features four 17m-high pylons. Gilt bronze sculptures of winged horses flank each pylon, representing Arts, Sciences, Commerce and Industry. The centre of the arched bridge also features hammered copper nymphs, which were created to memorialise the historic Franco-Russian Alliance. These elements were recreated in gilded glamour on the Dior runway.
Dior’s audience was offered a glimpse of history, incorporating both the maison’s design and geographical heritage. Jones’ recreation of the Pont Alexandre III provides a spectacular step into the brand’s future.
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