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Editor’s picks from Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

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MSGM: Massimo Giorgetti kept his pants cropped and his furs shaggy in his graphic winter collection that came tinged with blasts of popping winter colour. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

By Jack Moss

last updated 15 July 2022

in Inspiration

**Galleria Vittorio Emanuele:** Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is returning to its shiny glory thanks to the help of Prada and Versace who are funding its restoration. Works will be done in time for Milan's expo in May

Portrait of a mannequin — **Charlotte Olympia:** Peering into the world of mid-century interiors, heels came in the style of table legs, leathers were printed like wallpaper, while framed portrait clutches took inspiration for the Dutch 'Fauve' painter Kees Van Dongen

Armani Le Sac 11 bag with an installation by Vincenzo de Cotiis — **Giorgio Armani:** Mr Amani debuted his new Le Sac 11 bag with an installation by architect Vincenzo de Cotiis at Milan's Antonia boutique

Designer Vienna born clothing presentation — **Arthur Arbesser:** Vienna born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser continues to dazzle with his unusual presentations in Milan. This season the LVMH prize nominated designer imported everything from his native Austria, including the Bosendorfer Imperial piano, which played Arbesser's favourite classic piece by Schubert, to the vintage chairs by Hoffmann, Thonet and Wagner on which the models' sat, along with the fabrics he used for his sleek minimal designs

Collection of photographs on a wall — **Tod's:** The leather goods brand presented David Bailey’s 'Stardust' inside Milan's Padiglione d'Arte Contemporanea, showcasing a collection of more then 300 photographs including Salvador Dali, Andy Warhol and David Bowie all shot by the iconic lensman

Mannequins dressed in a contemporary capsule collection — **7 For All Mankind:** The denim giant teamed up with Giambattista Valli to fashion a contemporary capsule collection that was launched at 10 Corso Como and is now available globally through the denim brand’s points of sale. ‘Denim fascinates me, as I am naturally drawn to exploring new grounds,’ explained Valli. ‘In this respect, 7 For All Mankind is an excellence, so pairing with them came as a natural choice. I used denim as a canvas onto which to project my vision. I worked on both shapes and fabrics, delivering jeans with a strong identity, quite unique for cut and treatment’

Bag exhibition — **Valextra:** The latest graphic offering from the Milanese bag maker

Models wearing Calvin Klein Jeans — **Calvin Klein Jeans:** The diffusion brand toughen up its act for A/W with plenty of black leather, ripped denim and utility shapes

Mirrored installation of evening bag treasures — **Alberto Guardiani:** We encountered a mirrored installation of evening bag treasures at Alberto Guardiani

Colorful and modernist design of Milan HQ — **Paula Cademartori:** The accessory designer’s new Milan HQ is a riot of colour and modernist design

Woven color clutch bags — **Paula Cademartori:** Her winter collection’s clutch bags possessed the same clash of woven colours, cut-outs and textures

Installation of lace-up heels — **Paula Cademartori**: Also new this season was her push into shoes with these lace-up numbers

Models wearing pieces from burgeoning womenswear line sitting on velvet couches — **Kiton:** The brand transformed three rooms of its Via Pontaccio space into a *mise-en-scène* for its burgeoning womenswear line. Mohair checks and cashmere suiting cosied right up with the velvet couches

Modern, arty graphic handbag — **Fendi:** The Peekaboo squares up for A/W with an arty graphic gradient

Ice and fur winter footwear — **Fendi:** Ice and fur teamed up for Fendi’s winter footwear faire

Seated candlelight dinner — **Pomellato:** Milan-based jeweller Pomellato threw a party in honor of Salma Hayek, the brand's new face, at iconic fashion store 10 Corso Como. A photographic exhibit of her new advertising images were followed by a seated candlelight dinner for 130

Hollywood heroines mood board — **Bally:** Hollywood heroines also took pride of place on Bally’s A/W mood board

Satchel bags and heels next to a cactus plant — **Bally:** Next autumn’s satchel bags and sandals take on a similarly Seventies spin

Splashes of color skinned slip-on sneakers — **Bally:** Splashes of colour hit every corner of Bally's autumn collection including the felt skinned slip-on sneaks

presentation of mannequins wearing Noir architectural tailoring — **Agnona:** Noir architectural tailoring stood tall at Agnona's A/W presentation

**Sergio Rossi:** Monotone silk piped sandals and buttoned-up pumps stole the limelight at Sergio Rossi

Metallic leather shoes — **Church’s:** The cobbler’s traditional brogue got a metallic leather lift

Furry laced-up high heel shoes — **Gianvito Rossi:** Shearling shoes were laced-up with a fineness that only Rossi can deliver

Installation of mannequins wearing snake and crocodile skin digital prints — **Moncler Gamme Rouge:** Outerwear encountered a reptilian rendezvous at Moncler with snake and croc skin digital prints galore

Leather and feather classic sandal — **Álvaro González:** The Spanish designer let feathers fly to update the house's classic sandal, winter or not…

Beige tote bag — **Álvaro González:** The tote bag got an architectural rejig with bucket bag proportions for A/W

Various colors of boxy satchel bags — **Bulgari:** The jewellery house’s boxy satchel bag was one of our favourites of the week

Showcase of united urban causal with the rural outdoors — **Woolrich:** We checked into Woolrich’s Milan showcase that united urban causal with the rural outdoors

: Leopard and teal leathered Jimmy Choo handbags and heels — **Jimmy Choo:** Leopard and teal leather were suspended mid-air at Jimmy Choo

Smashing accessories explosion installation — **Furla:** The launch of Furla's first footwear collection resulted in a big party and a smashing accessories explosion installation

Models sitting on a sofa wearing silk printed pajamas and sleep accessories — **FRS:** Francesca Ruffini, wife of Moncler chairman Remo Ruffini, debuted her first clothing line this season at her home in Milan. Entitled FRS (For Restless Sleepers) the collection is centered around silk printed pajamas and sleep accessories

Models wearing technicolor Mongolian fur and shaggy knitwear patch pieces — **Maurizio Pecoraro:** Italian designer Maurizio Pecoraro is now deservingly regaining traction in Milan. We especially liked his technicolour Mongolian fur and shaggy knitwear patch pieces for A/W

Mood board of models wearing clothing — **Ports 1961:** The mood board of the Canadian brand's new creative director Natasa Cagalj

Installation of furry sandals — **Santoni:** Fur flew for Santoni's sandal offering...

Brown and black heel leather boot — **Santoni:** ...before its leather boots were laced from the block heel upwards

Leather bags that looks like wood — **Bertoni:** This season's bags were fashioned out of leather, but looked like wood

Installation of black and red handbags — **Elena Ghisellini:** The ex-Givenchy accessories designer has married fetish punk elements and graphic urban detailing for her A/W collection fittingy titled 'Contemporary Contrasts'

Installation of mannequins wearing patterned print clothing — **Andrea Incontri:** Milan-based Andrea Incontri designs all of his prints for his exclusive fabrics himself. This season's theme? 1930s acrobats

Presentation in which jewelry was hung from original artwork — **Ca & Lou:** Founders Carolina Neri and Bérengère Lux collaborated with New York artist Bruno Grizzo on an intriguing Milan presentation in which their jewellery was hung from original artwork

Colorful fantasy-drawn furry coats — **Vladimiro Gioia:** The furrier continues to be Milan's go-to man for impeccably mad, fantasy-drawn furs

Installation of Milan atelier along with strawberry tree wood furniture — **Stephan Janson:** The Frenchman showed his winter collection as a salon-style presentation within his Milan atelier along with strawberry tree wood furniture made by children in northern Morocco

Chandeliers at Milan's Società del Giardino — **Fay:** We loved the chandelier situation at Milan's Società del Giardino - the glowing site of Fay's strong A/W fashion show

Presentation of the Italian brand's dramatic footwear

Fratelli Rossetti: The Italian brand's dramatic footwear presentation lit up the interiors of Milan's Palazzo Visconti

(Image credit: TBC)

Models wearing Raccoon coats and cashmere sweatpants — **Brunello Cucinelli:** Raccoon coats and cashmere sweatpants will be keeping the Brunello Cucinelli woman warm next winter

Mink and fox intarsia Moon stiletto boots — **Casadei:** A fascination with the 1970s produced a snazzy pair of mink and fox intarsia Moon stiletto boots

Models wearing punchy graphic iteration of the new autumn trend — **Just Cavalli:** The brand is riding the patchwork wave in Milan, serving up a punchy graphic iteration of the new autumn trend. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

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Jack Moss

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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