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Editor’s picks from Milan Fashion Week S/S 2015: womenswear collections

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Flower market with buckets of flowers some on the tiled floor and some on trailers with wheels on the left and geese and other birds decorations with more flowers on the right

Marni: Consuelo Castiglioni hosted a real flower market in Milan's Rotonda della Besana that had her show's floral motifs leaping off the runway and into the public's arms

(Image credit: TBC)

By Jack Moss

last updated 19 July 2022

in Inspiration

Collection of beautiful ceramics on cream cloth on round wooden table — **Maurizio Pecoraro:** Fashion designer Maurizio Pecoraro has been collecting ceramics from Danish designer Bjorn Wiinblad for over 20 years. His personal collection of ceramics was displayed together with his new fashion collection inside De Padova - one of our favourite design shops in milan

A collection of clothing hanging from rails with a pair of shoes below each outfit — **Calvin Klein Collection:** Minimalism at its best, hanging within the brand's Milan HQ

Black and white display unit decorated with shoes and handbags across a red cutout drywall decorated with more shoes and handbags — **Jimmy Choo:** Beautifully presented within a graphic set, the latest Choo highlights of denim, metallic leathers and fringing had us longing for next summer

Woman on left is wearing a golden-brown polo neck top and a golden-brown matching long jacket and the woman on the right is wearing a white skirt with a light brown loose fitting jacket — **Dusan:** Softly draped, tonal layering and raw-edged fabrications headlined Dusan's sportif mode for summer

White podiums with footwear display with two pillars in the back of the room — **L'F:** Young footwear designers Licia Florio and Francio Ferrari staged their first presentation during Milan fashion week at art gallery Lorenzelli Arte

White pillar with display of shoes in front of screen displaying a collection of individual small colourful flowers — **L'F:** Inspired by Italy's famed Hotel Il Pellicano, the collection was shown in a space filled with blown up photographs that Ferrari snapped on location in Porto Ercole

A display of women's outfits hanging from railings from the ceiling with glass doors and windows at the back of the room — **Arthur Arbesser:** We got a special preview of Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser's presentation that took place in a former women's liberation headquarters and current parking lot in Milan

Colorful photographs framed with black frames displayed on white walls with lights above it to enhance the framed photos — **Arthur Arbesser:** Curated by architect Luca Cipelletti, the sprawling space featured a static installation, live models mingling with 20 analogical photographs by artist Carlo Valsecchi plus a video that Arbesser shot in Vienna with 1980s supermodel Cordula Reyer

Woman on left is wearing a short light blue dress with a yellow skirt covered in transparent chiffon. The woman on the right facing the front with her head turned slightly and wearing a royal blue coat — **Caterina Gatta:** Rome-based Caterina Gatta has recently shifted her focus, from one-of-a-kind fashion pieces crafted from vintage fabrics, to ready-to-wear clothing that can be produced in scaled quantities. But the impact is still noteworthy. Here are two intriguing looks from her newest spring collection

A collection of jewel-tone bags nicely displayed in a beautiful setting — **Bulgari:** Presented in Bulgari's namesake hotel in Milan, the collection dazzled with jewel-tone bags in, bespoke diamond pave set sunglasses and silk scarves of a higher thread count then ever before

Glass server with display of handbags next to an ornament looking like a dog with a leather strap around its neck — **Valextra:** Álvaro González's latest collection for the house of Valextra was an exercise in luxury and elegance

Colourful sequin, beads and crystal embroidered bird to celebrate the Spring collection — **MSGM:** A detail of the bead embroidery that Massimo Giorgetti used for his beautifully executed spring collection

Red and white shoes covered in playful lipstick motifs — **Brian Atwood:** Footwear designer Brian Stwood collaborated with New York-based Pop Art illustrator Donald Drawbertson on a capsule collection covered in playful lipstick motifs

A beautiful, colourful embroidered design made of beads, crystals and sequin — **Paolo Battaglia and Antonio Ponte:** Formerly designers for labels such as Missoni and Ken Scott, the pair have launched their own collection for the first time. Entitled 'GEM', all 45 pieces feature one-of-a-kind bead, crystal and sequin embroideries designed by the duo themselves

Female models parading and showing off their beautiful designer outfits — **Gabriele Colangelo:** Fabric development has always been at the heart of this designer's practice. For Milan fashion week, this was again ingrained into his collection and exemplified Colangelo's refreshing talent

Lounge area in a beautiful greenhouse setting — **Tod's:** Alessandra Facchinetti turned her show space into a trellised greenhouse for spring

"Dress in Italy" book held by someone in a courtyard with grass and many green plants — **Camera Nazionale dei Buyers:** We love the mini vocabulary book that the Camera Nazionale dei Buyers (the buyer subset of fashion week's governing body) printed to help explain the finer points of Italian style. Continuing the garden theme, the party they threw in the courtyard of the ex Monastero delle Umiliate wasn't bad either

Display of mannequins in yellow submarines in a resemblance of the sea — **Moncler:** We all live in a yellow submarine… Neoprene-clad mannequins were perfectly poised for sub sea level exploration at Moncler

A collection of black handbags displayed on a white wall with a splash of colour behind each of it — **Furla:** Making its icon more iconic, primary coloured paint splattered limited-editions of Furla's 'Candy' bag

Three mannequins dressed in black, inspired by Ancient Egypt — **Agnona:** Inspired by Ancient Egypt, Stefano Pilati created a spring collection featuring hieroglyphic sheer knits, kilted skirts and reed-like swathes of fabric

Black sandals and a leather purse displayed on a red counter — **Santoni:** Metallic flashes of ruby red highlighted the pivotal line between strength, sensuality, craftsmanship and modern design at Santoni

A beautiful, unique metal sculpture celebrating the historic Milanese fashion label — **Krizia:** One of the best presentations during Milan Fashion Week was Krizia's formal relaunch under Chinese creative director Zhu Chongyun at the richly frescoed and gilded 17th century Palazzo Litta. Architect Vincenzo de Cotiis served as the informal curator of the project that brought five Italian magazines together with five international artists or designers to celebrate the historic Milanese fashion label. Here is de Cotiis' dramatic metal sculpture - a homage to Krizia's famous pleats

A spectacular 'Phoenix' nest made of reclaimed wood — **Krizia:** Furniture designer Faye Toogood's spectacular 'Phoenix' nest made of reclaimed wood

A selection of eyeballs displayed with a beautiful chandelier hanging from the ceiling — **Krizia:** An eyeball installation by Malaysian born, Milan-based art director Joanne Tan

A yoga outfit consisting of a beige short and navy reversible top lying on a carpet — **Weargrace:** American born, Milan-based designer Karen Joyce presented her nascent yoga line in the Alberto Levi carpet gallery. The line featured unusual silhouettes and buttery soft cottons such as this wrap-front short and reversible printed top that can be worn front or back

A display of colourful backpacks on tiled steps — **Piquadro:** A lesson in packing from the experts

Wooden podiums with a beautiful display of printed handbags — **Ca&Lou:** The jewellery brand launched adorned, printed handbags for spring

A flat woven suede sandal displayed on a silver flat stand — **Gianvito Rossi:** The Italian shoe designer goes low and plaited for S/S 2015 with this flat woven suede sandal

Purple sand hills with lights above it and people seated behind the hills — **Prada:** Purple lumps set the surreal, sand hill scene at Prada

A selection of five colourful metallic sandals — **Álvaro:** Álvaro González, Valentino's former accessories designer, refines the perfect metallic sandal for spring

A beautiful decorated long table with golden chairs and colourful cushions with people around the table — **Kiton:** The brand relaunched its womenswear label with a sit down lunch in its Via Pontaccio headquarters, complete with tomatoes and mozzarella flown in from Naples

Jeremy Scott standing between two beautiful Barbie models. On the right a Barbie model in a blue dress — **Moschino:** We've gone from McDonald's to Barbie as Jeremy Scott continues his riff on American consumer culture. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Photo of two ladies wearing leather skirts with a display of shoes and handbags — **Bally:** Pablo Coppola's spring collection featured feminine leather skirts and flat loafers

Wooden desks with displays of various items like framed pictures and an African-inspired outfit — **Woolrich:** The house collaborated with Dutch fabric mill Vlisco (founded in 1846) for its latest African-inspired line. The cloth mill specialises in textile designs from the region as a hangover from Dutch colonial times

A colourful selection of men's leather shoes displayed on podiums — **Fratelli Rossetti:** It's not surprising that Fratelli Rossetti's new hand-stained calfskin lace-ups are called 'Candies'

Fausto Puglisi appearing backstage and surrounded by models wearing his new collection — **Fausto Puglisi:** The Italian designer backstage was surrounded by models sporting his Op art-inspired spring offering. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Two ladies, one in orange and one in navy dressed in jumpsuits next to a hardware store — **Gentucca Bini:** One of our favourite presentations in Milan occurred not in a fancy palazzo, but in a hardware store. Designer Gentucca Bini used the store to launch a series of workwear jumpsuits, seven styles in all, which were worn by local friends who represented various creative industries

A colourful display of leather handbags and other leather items — **Bertoni:** Milan's leather goods presentations begin with the family owned, former trunk-making brand Bertoni

Beautiful artwork of Milanese artist Ugo La Pietra, displayed under a similarly spectacular Malachite ceiling — **Loewe:** The Spanish house opened its first European Casa Loewe store in Milan, dotted with the works of local Milanese artist Ugo La Pietra, showcased here under a similarly spectacular Malachite ceiling

A beach hut display of designer spring handbags in fashionable colours — **Sara Battaglia:** The designer's spring handbag installation was inspired by 1940s beach huts from Italy's Forte dei Marmi resorts

A pair of two-tone shoes in cream and black with one shoe displayed on a stand and the other shoe next to it — **Brunello Cucinelli:** Dusty, pastel hues and exotic skins dominated Brunello Cucinelli's spring preview

Four female models on stage dressed in black and white outfits — **Marcelo Burlon:** This tiny t-shirt label has mushroomed into a full service fashion brand

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Jack Moss

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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