A great fashion show requires an equally extraordinary producer. Named Best Showman by Wallpaper* in 2009, Etienne Russo is the genius behind some of our favourite shows, including Moncler Gamme Bleu's S/S 2010, which took over the Piscina Cozzi and won our Best Spectacle award (W*131). Here, the showman extraordinaire reveals a little of what pulling off these feats entails, with his diary of Milan fashion week S/S 2011: menswear collections.
Along with his expansive team at events company Villa Eugénie, this month Russo has produced the S/S Milan shows for Moncler Gamme Bleu and Corneliani, while in the past he has masterminded those for an impressive roll call of names, such as Hermès, Sonia Rykiel, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin and Chanel, to name just a few.
Russo has already jetted off to Paris, where he'll be producing spectacles for Dior Homme, Lanvin, Hermès, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche. Check back soon to see the best from Paris' S/S 2011 menswear collections on Wallpaper.com.
3PM: Checking the weather on my iPad, as the Moncler show will be outside. It doesn't look very good! Let's check for umbrellas and catering. We want to see happy faces in the audience.
3.35PM: Music meeting is finished, a quick evaluation with Michel Gaubert.
3.40PM: I answer some important mails and add meetings to my schedule.
4.10PM: It is Friday afternoon, most of the Milanese caterers are declining to do the Moncler show on Sunday, too short notice. I do not want to hear about that: "Where there is a will, there is a way!" Immediately start to call my contacts.
4.15PM: I have found a caterer in Florence who is willing to come to Milano on Sunday. Problem solved.
4.30PM: On the way to my car to go to via Montenapoleone. I always try to do some market research while I am abroad. Going into the shops, I look at the architecture, the windows, the clothes, the music, the light... I find it very inspiring. Today I would like to do Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Prada and Jil Sander.
5.30PM: Bump into Pierre Rougier from PR Consulting, NY. You notice fashion week has started: I see a lot of familiar faces on the street.
7.30PM: On my way to the music rehearsal for Corneliani at the 'Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia'.
7.35PM: Everyone is on time; Michel greets me outside the Museum.
7.40PM: I congratulate the lighting team. Very happy with the result.
7.50PM: Listen to the music for the show for the first time in the venue. The music gets approved by the client. Everyone is in good spirits - smiles everywhere.
8PM: Mails continue to come in. Need to focus on them.
8.30PM: Last check of the venue, with my project manager Ikrame. Check the curtains, placement of the carpet and chairs, the light and the backstage. Every detail counts.
8.40PM: Trying to find the right angles for the in-house photographers.
8.45PM: Meeting with Guillaume, who assists me on the scenographic part, discussing how the models will walk.
9PM: Leave the venue to go for dinner at my hotel. Let's hope I can call it an early night tonight as tomorrow will be a busy day.
19/06/2010
8AM: Wake-up time. Breakfast is made of fruit and green tea and a cocktail of organic supplements.
9.15AM: On my way to the venue for the Corneliani show. Checking in with the photographers, greeting the stylist Jacob K and the designer Sergio Corneliani. Push everyone to get the last little things done as quickly as possible but minding quality, quality, quality.
9.42AM: Preparing myself for the rehearsal, putting on my intercom.
9.45AM: Briefing the models how to walk.
9.47AM: Ready for the music and... Action! "Wake up boys! I want to see a relaxed but strong walk. Give me some energy, a smile on your faces and twinkle in the eyes! Be cool guys, a nice cool, not a pretentious cool! I want to see happiness that comes from inside, not a commercial smile!"
9.57AM: Finale: "Come on guys! It's now or never, keep the pace, keep the rhythm!"
10AM: Evaluation of the rehearsal with the designer and Guillaume. I am very happy. If we keep that flowing energy, it will be good.
10.05AM: A quick interview with Associated Press.
10.10AM: Asking my photographers to show me the pictures taken, making sure we have the right result for the video and photographers. Evaluating the music, ensuring everything is ready for the show with Ikrame.
10.50AM: Happy to see Raffaello Napoleone from Pitti Imagine backstage at the Corneliani show. I make some time to talk to him.
11.08AM: Need to concentrate.
11.10AM: Give a few hints to the photographers.
11.12AM: Backstage, last brief to models. Time to start the show.
11.15AM: Walk to the show control area to run the show.
11.30AM: Give top for start of music. Top first model. Top light. Top for the music of the finale. Top for the light. For the models. Wait for the last model to leave. Top for Sergio on the catwalk.
11.40AM: Light and music for the end of the show. Guests are leaving their seats.
11.42AM: Have a chat with Gert Jonkers, from Fantastic Man.
11.43AM: Congratulate everyone backstage. I am very happy to have met Jacob K, who did a great job.
12.35PM: Going for a lunch meeting with my team, to work on a new project.
2.10PM: Make some phone calls concerning the Moncler show tomorrow. I insist on having catering before the show starts, as the weather doesn't look good and think it's important to entertain people with little things.
3.30PM: I still have some time to continue my market research. Quickly go to 10 Corso Como. While driving there, it's raining harder and harder. Check the weather for tomorrow again, starting to fear the worst.
5.45PM: Go back to the hotel, stopping by Michel Gaubert's room which happens to be just opposite mine. Listen to some tunes for the pre-show with Steven.
6PM: Need to evacuate some stress. A quick yoga session at the hotel will do.
8PM: Head to the velodrome, to have the music rehearsal for Moncler. Can't wait to see the bikes Moncler ordered for the show.
8.15PM We have to solve some problems. How will the people realize the show is over? Which music will we use for the pre-show? How will the models manage to walk and cycle without
making it look messy?
9.30PM: Trying out the bikes together with Thom. The bikes look amazing.
9.55PM: After a bit of fun we have to concentrate on the finale again.
10.30PM: Still very worried about the scenography. Guillaume and I will discuss it over dinner at Giacomo.
20/06/2010
9AM-1PM: Meetings all morning for new projects.
1.25PM: Arriving at the velodrome for the Moncler show. Greeting Thom and the Moncler team...
... and assuring them that the venue looks impeccable with the project manager, Anne Sophie.
2.15 PM: Put on my intercom. Take my mic. Stay connected with my production team through the talkie. Ask for the catwalk to be cleared again. Someone puts a salad in my hands, as I didn't have the time to have lunch until now.
2.20PM: Gather the two people in charge of the line up. Last adjustments and information about the latest changes decided.
2.25PM: Briefing of the models: where to walk -or not to-, where to take the bike, show them the
critical points on the catwalk.
2.30PM: Ask for music and guide the models on bikes on the music.
2.35PM: Give some more explanation to the model who will open the show. Models ready to go. Check with Thom what he thinks.
2.40PM: Music on, launch of models. Bikes first...
2.45PM: Make the music stop, make the models stop - there is almost an accident, one model on a bike crashes into another. Gosh, they really are kids!
2.50PM: This was not bad for a first rehearsal, but we still need to practice a lot. Show the models how to ride the bike. The racers have to ride with one hand otherwise the people won't see the clothes.
3PM: Music check with Steven. How long should each song last according to the scenography?
4.10PM: Ready for a second rehearsal. Giving some more instructions to the models. It is very important they follow each other in a quick tempo. Don't want to see gaps in between models.
4.30PM: Taking a break. Can't miss the football game, Italy against New Zealand.
5.25PM: Line up for third rehearsal. This one needs to be perfect. “Come on, be energetic, you are falling asleep! Don't slow down. I feel you are slowing down! Don't be afraid!”
5.40PM: That was a good rehearsal! Take a look at my watch.
6PM: Time to open the door.
6.05PM: We can open the doors. Top for the music. Everyone has to take their places.
6.15PM: Backstage, last brief to models. Last check on their outfits.
6.30PM: We are ready to start the show! Shouting to someone to clear the way! That person is walking in the middle of the runway! I push the first model on his bike towards the runway. GO!!! 1, 2, GO! The second one follows.
It is looking good, despite the little rain...
... We are so lucky, it rained nearly the whole afternoon, but no one falls!
6.45PM: All models are cycling around the velodrome, Thom is entering the middle of the venue. The beatles are shouting out of the boxes, the audience is clapping! Very excited! This show was amazing!
6.50PM: Run downstairs to greet the models! They did a wonderful job, and they seem to have enjoyed it as much as I did.
7PM: Time for a quick debrief with the Moncler team.
7.45PM: Call my team together. Congratulate them all for the good job, and get ready to start a meeting for our next project.
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