Fashion Rio S/S 2011 report: the best in show

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While the fashion pack take a little breather between the Milan and Paris menswear collections, we use the brief hiatus to take a look at the recent goings-on at Fashion Rio, where we celebrated the success of the Wallpaper* Born in Brazil issue. Here, Godfrey Deeny sets the scene and rounds up the best in show.

If there is one runway season that best captures the smouldering sensuality of a city - while indelibly marking it as the sexiest spot on the planet - it would have to be Fashion Rio.

Armed with perfect tans while backlit by the dazzling sunshine, Brazil's in-crowd descended on Rio de Janeiro in the first week of June for an ebullient Electric Ladyland moment of tropical high prints, post runway parties festooned by leggy beauties, live samba dancing, telenovella stars and politico celeb fest at Pier Maua. The latter, by the way, is a convenient snap shot of Brazil's larger ambitions. When fully completed, the elongated waterfront warehouse complex - emerging from a R$3 billion makeover - will include a giant contemporary art centre and a spanking new multi-stadia metro line. Meanwhile, in the next bay, Brazil's richest man Eike Batista is remaking the storied zone of Flamengo with a R$80 million restoration of the 1920s classic Gloria Hotel.

But back to the fashion. Launched some 15 years ago by impresario Paolo Borges, Fashion Rio now boasts a R$14m budget, easily besting London while rivalling the other grand slam seasons in Milan, New York and Paris.

And there was plenty to show for all that money. Alone among the BRIC quartet, Brazil effortlessly showcased the blazing fashion talent that is making the global front row sit up and pay attention.

From start to finish, the clobber on the catwalks was upbeat, not least the English country garden on acid Photoshop prints in a bravura show by Espaço Fashion; humanoid neon print T-shirts at Ausländer; hippie raffia totes in Totem; and, just to prove the point that fashion knows no limits, Liberty surf boots at New Order.

Lenny Niemeyer put on the season's best show, proving once again why she is arguably the best swimwear designer today - the Manolo Blahnik or Christian Louboutin of the strand. With a desert theme - a galleon's worth of rigging ropes transformed an ingenious sand-dune-like tarpaulin set into a gigantic, looming, Sahara sky - Lenny sent out wonderfully dusky bikinis and leotards with architectural shapes alongside a series of great tops, tunics and wraps in muddy abstract prints. Accompanied by a mesmerising soundtrack (a very cool remix of Massive Attack's Paradise Circus), her troupe of the best of the new generation of Brazilian catwalk models effortlessly created yet another defining fashion moment for which she received a well-deserved standing ovation at the show's finale. You heard it here first: Lenny Niemeyer's structural one-piece, a siren-esque fit on model Barbara Berger, will be copied worldwide.

Definitely worth keeping an eye on are the artfully brilliant labels New Order and Osklen, both by the dashing Latvian-Brazilian Oskar Metsavhat. The latter is a global brand in the making, gaining a devoted following for its mélange of recyclable materials and Oscar Niemeyer-influenced curves.

The week's best men's show was by British Colony. Making a very welcome return to the catwalk after a four-year hiatus, designer Maxime Perelmuter gave us expressionist fauna shorts, sleek calico jackets and the men's accessory of the season, a stovepipe straw hat.

The honour for the coolest It Gal event went to Juliana Jabour's Mexican-inspired floral hibiscus tops and ruffled skirts; while the most elegant collection for grown-ups was Printing's colonial embroidered linen chic.

Post show, the smart set decamped to Londra, the Fasano hotel's impossible-to-get-into dance bar. Amid Philippe Starck's wood and white linen pleasure palace - framed by a perfect Ipanema sunset, rooftop pool and some of the planet's most beautiful people - weary fashionistas revived and regrouped.

Just in time for the party to end all parties, and to draw the curtain on another memorably fabulous Fashion Rio: Wallpaper's Born in Brazil bash. 500 Caipirinha-fuelled VIPs - among them, fashion designers, models, telenovella stars and Mayor Eduardo Paes himself - grooved the night away to Dj Zé Pedro's samba-funk, while exchanging fervent promises to do it all again next season.

Four models on a runway, displaying sporty cuts mixing with luxe fabrics

(Image credit: TBC)

Sporty cuts mix with luxe fabrics at Redley

Three models on a runway, displaying clothing in yellow and blue

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Redley's bright colour palette hits the spot

Models on a runway displaying glossy PVC and rubber-effect fabrics

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Part of the collection showcased glossy PVC and rubber-effect fabrics

Model on a runway wearing a peach-coloured dress with silk detailing

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Redley’s womenswear was a combination of cottons and silks

Media and journalists interviewing Lenny Niemeyer

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Lenny Niemeyer in full swing before her show

Models in white robes having makeup done backstage

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Backstage before the Lenny show

A model in futuristic swimwear squares up to the camera

(Image credit: TBC)

A model in futuristic swimwear squares up to the camera

Backstage, four models wearing swimwear standing facing each other

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This season, swimwear proportions were cut to boldly reveal more of the skin

Backstage, three models wear white robes with "Lenny" embroidered on the back

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Personalised Lenny robes

Printed silk canopy hangs above the runway

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A printed silk canopy sets the scene…

Model at the end of the runway in a short dress in neutral tones

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... for the nude and neutral safari colour palette that featured throughout the Lenny collection

Line of models brightly lit on a runway

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Innovative textiles like leather and glazed lycra livened up the sheer nude tones of some of the pieces

Rooftop pool at night, with "Lenny" lighting the surface of the water

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The start of Lenny’s after-party at the rooftop of the Fasano hotel

Model wearing a dress and hat, on a runway lined with foliage

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The Maria Bonita Extra show

Model under a spotlight at the end of a fashion runway lined with foliage

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A theme of romance at Maria Bonita Extra

Model in a lilac outfit and hat, on a runway lined with foliage

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The theme was brought home by flowery prints and a garden stage backdrop

Male model wearing a black and white vest, black shorts and blond wig

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Tribal rock at Auslander

Male model wearing an open, white jacket with the sleeves pulled up, and a black and white striped hat

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A music festival inspired look

Live music band on a stage with three palm trees behind them

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Models walked to a live show soundtrack by Canadian band Dragonette

A line of models walking down a runway with the band in the background

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Auslander’s take on hippies, grunge rockers and club ravers

Model on a runway wearing a floaty, pink dress

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Floaty fabrics at Alessa

Model on runway wearing a layered, pale green dress with a green pendant necklace

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Ruffles and Grecian details gave things a bohemian70’s vibe

Model on runway wearing a two-piece outfit in a tribal pattern. A second model walks behind, wearing a skirt in the same design

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Clever makeup, accessories and print made the Alessa woman a mystical gypsy

Models in pink swimwear with turquoise or neon yellow kaftans

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Over at Cavendish a sea of turquoise and neon yellow was thrown over shades of pink

Model wearing a layered outfit with long strings of coloured beads

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The look concentrated heavily on layering…

A long line of models on the runway, all wearing brightly-coloured clothing and accessories

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... and accessories

Model wearing a cream outfit with ruffles and sheer panels

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Melk Z-Da

Model wearing a white dress which is heavily layered

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Details of super sheer fabrics overplayed with intricate layering

A model in a red outfit, walking in a line of models wearing white

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The collection was full of ruffles, textures and volumes

Model wearing a white outfit with a lot of pleating, ruffles and layers

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Floaty fabrics were given a directional edge with razor sharp tailoring in a collection that was mostly white in shade

In the front row of the audience, a person in white wears a white box covering their head

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Front row at Oestudio

Male model with a jacket and trousers in bright blue, and bird's nest hair

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Bird’s nest hair featured throughout the show, a theme later carried through on some of the prints in the outfits

Someone wearing flip-flops and a device around one ankle

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Functional beachwear with a twist

Female model wearing a ruffled blue dress

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Models were also curiously given raised left eyebrows, a grooming detail carried throughout the show

The team behind Oestudio standing on the runway

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The team behind Oestudio

Green high-heeled shoes with matching bow, and green and orange socks

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Shoes at Giulia Borges

Model wearing a multi-coloured top and red trousers

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Highlights at the show included this multi-fabric satin top…

Blue, yellow and red satin dress with floral cut-outs

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... and satin dresses with patterned cut-outs

Model on runway wearing a brown outfit with long sleeves

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A minimalist look at Patachou

Model on runway wearing a cream, cold-shoulder dress, gathered at the thigh

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The prints in the collection were inspired by Nick Kight’s book ‘Flora'

Patacho designer Erika Frade walking off stage with the models

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Patacho designer Erika Frade closing the show

Model on runway wearing a partially-sheer shirt and low hat

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British Colony

Male model on runway wearing a safari-print jumpsuit and low hat

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A sophisticated presentation in which the menswear shone

Models in white outfits walk down one side of the runway

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The collection featured super lightweight fabrics and effortlessly floaty silhouettes

Designer Maxime Perelmuter greets the audience

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Designer Maxime Perelmuter making his comeback

Maxime Perelmuter

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Maxime Perelmuter

Apphia Michael and Maxime Perelmuter

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Apphia Michael backstage with Maxime Perelmuter after the show

Model wearing a blue shirt and multicoloured skirt

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Juliana Jabour doing what she does best with a showcase of bright colour mixing…

Red wedge shoes with a bow at the heel

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... and cute accessories

A shot of patchwork-style headwear, which featured throughout the show

(Image credit: TBC)

A shot of patchwork-style headwear, which featured throughout the show

Model wearing an orange dress

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The Carlos Tufvesson show was mainly a concentration on glamour and disco-inspired looks

Carlos Tufvesson with his models

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Carlos Tufvesson with his models

A standing ovation for Carlos Tufvesson

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A standing ovation for Carlos Tufvesson

Model on runway wearing a long, layered orange dress

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Doll-like girl meets 70’s housewife at Isabella Capeto

Model in orange dress with ruffled floral edging

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Models grazed along the catwalk to the soundtrack of 'To Binge' by the Gorillaz, featuring Little Dragon

Bohemian fringing detail on a Isabella Capeto bag

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Bohemian fringing detail on a Isabella Capeto bag

Model wearing orange dress with Liberty-style flower printing

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Liberty-style flower printing

Shoes giving the impression that they are made of pink circular disks

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Melissa + Gaetano Pesce shoes at one of the off-show exhibition showcase spaces

A night view of Fashion Rio show venue Pier Maua

(Image credit: TBC)

A night view of Fashion Rio show venue Pier Maua

Bloggers busy uploading show reports at the RG Vogue Lounge

(Image credit: TBC)

Bloggers busy uploading show reports at the RG Vogue Lounge

Pier Maua by day

(Image credit: TBC)

Pier Maua by day

Godfrey Deeny
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