JW Anderson A/W 2014

Four people in a Car Park who look ready for a photoshoot
(Image credit: Arnolt Smead)

The Irish designer Jonathan Anderson is riding into 2014 on one hell of a wave. Shortly after he launched his Versus collaboration with Donatella Versace in New York, Paris came calling, with LVMH securing a minority stake in his east London-based label, and naming him creative director of the Spanish leathergoods house Loewe almost simultaneously. This institutional optimism showed in his A/W 2014 Men's proposition - a more diverse and pragmatic offering than recent shows and one that may be remembered for more than sheer shock factor. Grounding every look on a 7/8 length trouser, Anderson employed knitwear as a primary medium on top, opening with a series of flag-like tabard vests and later exploring secretarial, mid-century necklines on slinky cashmere sweaters (his strait-jacket tube knits returned to bound the arms on flowery intarsia rollnecks too). Riffing on many of his now-signature statements, he ruched mastic leather into ruffled shirting or the flat planes of a boxy, shawl collar blouson, and cut poppy-pattern jacquards into rounded, sporty twin-sets. This season, his androgyny found a new urban relevance.

Four people in a orderly fashioned line, the front man turning to the camera with a black neck sleeve on


(Image credit: Arnolt Smead)

Three men in a line, who all look like they are getting ready for a show.


(Image credit: Arnolt Smead)

Four men in a line who look dressed to perform in a fashion show


(Image credit: Arnolt Smead)

Three men in what looks like an underground car park dressed for a fashion show


(Image credit: Arnolt Smead)