Brioni A/W 2014

The era of Brendan Mullane is beginning to come very clearly into focus and we are increasingly enamoured of the view. Brioni is about traditional tailoring - after all, no one in the business turns a better bespoke wheel than they do. But up until now, they haven't always led menswear trends. Now that classic clothing is cool again, the time could not be more right and Mullane is ploughing perfect rows for this brand to plant their contemporary sartorial seeds. His latest collection, inspired by the trip Brioni founder Gaetano Salvini took to Japan in the 1960s, beautifully fused past and present, tradition and modernity. Displayed in a killer Japanese setting with digital cherry blossoms blowing overhead and walls built from traditional wood and paper, the collection was presented as if in a jewelled bento box. Best of the clothing lot were the sharply cut suits in the finest quality wool - spun and condensed to an inch of its life - that sat on the body like a silken second skin.

Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans