In the middle of a strong sartorial moment in menswear, Giorgio Armani, one of the forefathers of modern suiting, has his own imprint on the movement. Though he first established his signature style in fluidity and flow, Armani has now calibrated his cutting closer to the body. That means jackets assume the fit, form and function of a cosy cardigan sweater. Even with their sculpted torsos and narrow shoulders, the jackets for next winter were soft but substantive, featuring the season's new heathered or pebbly surfaced wools. Of course, when he turned his attention to actual sweaters, which also made a major imprint on the runway, Armani did so in a boldly artistic manner. Asymmetrically zipped, colour-blocked sweaters made novelty knitwear almost as new as Armani's latest obsession with the three-piece suit - featuring double-breasted waistcoats.
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
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