Following the game-changing theatrics of his Spring 2014 show, where American 'stepper' troops and Estonian black metal rockers took centre stage, Rick Owens chose the classical elegance of the Palais Chaillot to show the Autumn menswear show he labelled 'Moody'. The dominant silhouette was a wide onesie, cut from stiff gazar or cowhide, dropping from the shoulder into baggy shorts zipped across the behind and worn with lace-up leather galoshes. Calling out an ode to 'gang authority, cop authority and nun authority', Owens wrapped heads in filmy doo-rag 'wimples' and cut luxe 'swat' vests in pocketed silk and leather, enriching his seminal palette of black and bone with a deep rust brown. A-line trenches cut in bubbly jacquard and pillowy, knotted neck scarves furthered the exploration of giant proportions, hinting at a futuristic formality.
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Dhammada Collective brings participatory design and cultural preservation to the fore in IndiaDhammada Collective, in India's Bhopal, combines participatory design with cultural preservation to foster sustainable growth
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Year in review: top 10 design stories of 2024Wallpaper* magazine's 10 most-read design stories of 2024 whisk us from fun Ikea pieces to the man who designed the Paris Olympics, and 50 years of the Rubik's Cube
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Sharon Smith's Polaroids capture 1980s New York nightlifeIDEA Books has launched a new monograph of Smith’s photographs, titled Camera Girl and edited by former editor-in-chief of LIFE magazine, Bill Shapiro
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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At home with Rick OwensAs California-born fashion designer Rick Owens is named one of the Wallpaper* USA 300 – a celebration of creative America – we revisit our conversation with Owens in the run-up to his S/S 2023 menswear show last year
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
