Mood board: Paula Gerbase may have sighted the mundane details of the ‘every day’ as inspiration for her LC:M menswear debut, but the result was anything but humdrum. Having cut her teeth on Savile Row, Gerbase has long been a fan of reductionist tailoring. However, it was the purity and discipline of her A/W 2016 menswear offering – from exquisite waffle weave tailoring to shearling coats fastened with interlaced buttons – that gave us a seriously stellar LC:M start.
Scene setting: Gerbase’s collections have always leaned towards an architectural oeuvre so her decision to show at the under-utilised (as far as fashion venues go away) Royal Institute of British Architecture was a spark of genius as bright as the oversized glowing globes that lit her runway.
Best in show: Just as we've come to expect from her 1205 womenswear, Gerbase’s microscopic gaze was once again dutifully focused on the finer details. The Brazilian-born Saint Martin’s grad’s fascination with creating custom-designed cloths (this season featherlight Nylons and a jersey-like twist on chord) was only surpassed by her penchant for unseen trimmings, which she concealed within garments so as to be only apparent to the wearer. Here, her subtly quilted suiting was just as interesting as the casual ease of a classic fisherman’s jumper worn with tweed ‘tracksuit’ pants.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
