Mood board: If there's one man on the British fashion scene who can be relied upon to keep the trend treadmill turning its surely Jonathan Anderson. The blurred gender divide – that’s moved well beyond the fashion industry – had its sartorial beginnings on Anderson’s LC:M catwalk and for A/W 2016 he continued to keep us guessing… Was this collection’s re-occurring snail motif a nod to the industry’s maddening pace or nostalgically mined from Eighties kids TV show The Magic Roundabout? Either way the glow-in-the-dark escargot left a Love Parade trail of trippy eccentricity, pounded home by Michel Gaubert’s hardcore techno soundtrack.
Best in show: Practically speaking there was a strong focus on knitwear for A/W 2016 starting with Anderson’s rib knitted pants, which were laced at the ankle where in season’s past they’ve been flared, and continued with long-line grandpa cardigan coats that were tactfully dishevelled. The show’s slow-and-steady snail motif also made a (fun) run for some stellar outerwear pieces – from his perforated square stamped leather coat to a fluffy white fur bomber. But a shout-out should similarly go to his grey shell suits that featured cloud shaped pouch pockets (another LSD motif?!), for which the zippers must have given his machinists hell.
Finishing touches: Anderson isn’t afraid of man jewels and each of his alabaster models sported Perspex studded collars and metal headbands, while down below it was all about two tone lace-up leather boxing boots for life on the go.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Year in review: top 10 design stories of 2024Wallpaper* magazine's 10 most-read design stories of 2024 whisk us from fun Ikea pieces to the man who designed the Paris Olympics, and 50 years of the Rubik's Cube
-
Sharon Smith's Polaroids capture 1980s New York nightlifeIDEA Books has launched a new monograph of Smith’s photographs, titled Camera Girl and edited by former editor-in-chief of LIFE magazine, Bill Shapiro
-
A multifaceted Beverly Hills house puts the beauty of potentiality in the frameA Beverly Hills house in Trousdale, designed by Robin Donaldson, brings big ideas to the residential scale
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Inside JW Anderson’s dreamy, colour-soaked collaboration with MonclerMade to ‘entertain the eye’, Jonathan Anderson’s third collaboration with Moncler is a dreamlike outing defined by the designer’s deft use of colour
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
