Paul Smith A/W 2016
Paul Smith ushers in a new season of trouser shapes, while Lanvin Homme focuses on the craft of making
Mood board: 'This is really about echoing what I was doing when I first started,' Paul Smith said of his latest men’s collection. Smith opened his first shop in Nottingham in 1970 hence the layering of embroidery, pattern on pattern and denim. Presented in the glorious circular hall of the Bourse de Commerce, the clothes (jeans embellished with paisley, precise reversible shearlings and breezy flared trousers) were seventies-ish but felt totally modern.
Best in show: The look was designed around a layered wardrobe. Cashmere was worn with Liberty print, underneath shearling and with denim. The season ushers in three new trouser shapes too: a fuller leg with front pleat, a skinny fit and the standout slim flare.
Sound bite: 'I suppose it’s to do with the mix of things,' Smith said of the collection backstage. 'This season echoes what I used to wear and how I used to dress. And then world went very monochrome, very minimal, very black and white at some point. All black, navy, navy and black, all black; it still astounds me how may people enjoy black so much. It probably takes more effort to wear colour; but I don’t think that’s necessarily a bad thing!'
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craft
Archer + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its best
Formafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
By Henrietta Thompson Published
-
Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treat
Until December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
By Ellen Himelfarb Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated