Mood board: This collection marks the 20th anniversary of Raf Simons’ namesake menswear brand as well as his first post-Dior show. A list of references given out at the show went on to reinforce everything we already covet about Simons’ well-established oeuvre. At the top were four names including the designer Martin Margiela - whose influence could be seen in the exaggerated proportions of varsity jumpers and coats – and the artist Cindy Sherman. Sherman’s major European retrospective, Untitled Horrors clearly influenced the prevailing twisted American teen in a scary movie charisma brought to this season’s clothes.
Scene setting: The show took place within a wooden maze structure. The audience stood jostling against each other so as to maintain the narrow runway that was marked by only a thick black line on the floor. The show began with the voice of American composer Angelo Badalamenti talking about his longstanding collaborative process with David Lynch. In particular, he spoke about the music he designed for Lynch’s cult TV series Twin Peaks, which Simons later said was the soundtrack to his own creative maturation as a student in the early 1990s.
Best in show: Oversized, distressed jumper sleeves in a range of colours from Flemish blue to American red, jutted out from underneath neat, half-sleeve trench coats. However, it was a glorious selection of enormous, gleaming puffer jackets in aubergine, off-black and two-tone blue that became increasingly appealing as temperatures fell below freezing in Paris.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The most whimsical hotel Christmas trees around the worldWe round up the best hotel Christmas tree collaborations of the year, from an abstract take in Madrid to a heritage-rooted installation in Amsterdam
-
Stone dials are making a comeback: here are the watches doing it bestWatches with hard stone dials are enjoying a surge in popularity
-
These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons rove the digital realm for S/S 2021‘Technology is a part of humanity itself’ said the duo of their live streamed S/S 2021 show
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
