Mood board: Issey Miyake's design legacy is one of innovation and elegance. His pioneering experiments with pleated textiles in the early 1980s have created a globally recognisable and widely copied silhouette across both men’s and women’s wardrobes. Miyake first showed the men's collection at Paris Fashion Week in 1985 and the clothes have been a staple for the intelligentsia ever since. In its current iteration – designed by Yusuke Takahashi – the mood at Miyake has accelerated into a modern, dynamic sensibility with functionality and comfort at the fore.
Best in show: Standout were the lightweight nylon taffeta coats, taken from an archive pattern first designed for A/W 1983. Water and crease-resistant, they were worn buttoned at the neck, ready for a walk across a terrace or rocky terrain. Elsewhere, cropped puffer jackets sported wide shoulders. Zips twisted around the leg on technical trousers.
Finishing touches: The A/W 2017 collection looked towards the great outdoors in what the show notes labelled a ‘call to the wind’. Textured patterns in pop colours were developed from white birch forests and created by artisans using ten types of printing plates. Here the pieces combined the recognisable grace of urban clothing alongside more technical details taken from trekking garments and patterns inspired by the rhythm of nature. Miyake’s default silhouette – wide-cut trousers and collarless blousons – was offered in pleated, crushed fabrics. The clothes suggest both ease in their roominess and drama in their volume.
Issey Miyake A/W 2017
-
Travel editor Sofia de la Cruz’s gift guide for the discerning globetrotterWallpaper* travel editor Sofia de la Cruz curates her festive wish list, packed with stylish essentials for those constantly on the go
-
Paul Smith’s Claridge’s Christmas tree is a playful slice of ‘countryside in the centre of London’Sir Paul Smith is the latest in a long line of fashion designers to curate the iconic Claridge’s Christmas tree. Here, he talks to Wallpaper* about the inspiration behind the tree, which features bird boxes and wooden animals
-
Victoire de Castellane nods to Dior motifs in a new fine jewellery collectionFor the latest additions to the My Dior collection, Victoire de Castellane turns the house’s signature cannage motif into golden wonders
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
In Memoriam: Issey Miyake (1938 – 2022)We remember fashion designer Issey Miyake, who has died aged 84
-
The story behind Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s high-precision ‘Dazzle’ bagsCreated using micron-level injection moulding, Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s new ‘Dazzle’ series marks the latest chapter in the Japanese brand’s uniquely recognisable accessories
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
