Sacai A/W 2017
![Sacai Menswear Collection 2017](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/Th3HSuHdba4KLdZtP8xpWL-1280-80.jpeg)
Mood board: Since launching in 2009, Sacai’s men’s line has established its signature style. Designer Chitose Abe is an alumna of Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, and their influence is clearly signposted in her work. What Abe does, however, is tailor their eccentricity into something lighter, with a more delicate appeal. For A/W 2017 she explored the sense of mashing things together – creating garments from a hybrid of ideas. Fittingly, during a season which has focussed a lot on the heroes of art and the Beat Generation, the show was soundtracked by a lecture from the American novelist William S Burroughs. In it he spoke about making film or sound recordings by cutting and editing pre-existing material. Abe had applied the very same cut-up technique – famous for its influence on Bowie – to her clothes.
Finishing touches: Merging familiar menswear classics, Abe reassembled ideas in idiosyncratic pairings. Concealed decoration was key, from the studded punk biker collars to the decorative braid applied to a gun club check blazer. Standout were the outerwear pieces in a pixelated-camo shearling. Utilitarian wool work shirts were adorned with ceremonial braids.
Best in show: The show marked the season’s second outing for The North Face. A day after Junya Watanabe featured jackets cut from its classic duffel, Sacai unveiled its own capsule collection with the American brand. Central were the oversize parkas based on one of Sacai’s best-selling designs and a twist on the MA-1 bomber jacket. The project falls under The North Face Urban Exploration – a premium concept that aims to create more trend-led utility styles.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
‘There is nuance here’: Inside Prada Mode Abu Dhabi, hosted by Theaster Gates
Wallpaper* travels to Abu Dhabi for the latest edition of Prada Mode, the Italian house’s immersive arts-led programme which this year was guided by the American artist Theaster Gates in a site-specific space in the city’s MiZa district
By Orla Brennan Published
-
Peek inside Heathrow’s new VIP terminal: exclusive travel from door to departure
The Windsor is Heathrow’s newly refurbished private terminal boasting a private gallery, cuisine from a Michelin-starred chef, and butler and chauffeur services
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Feminism, freedom and Björk: inside Reykjavik's interdisciplinary modern art scene
Collaboration and community lie at the heart of a new generation of Icelandic creators
By Lisa Wright Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated