Thom Browne A/W 2017
Mood board: The opening looks at Thom Browne’s A/W 2017 show all looked identical at first glance. However, the full body suits – like those worn by matadors – impeccably fitted to the body and cut in delicate herringbone wool, were adorned with hundreds of covered buttons that created a different line on each. Suits were exquisitely precise and incredibly elegant. There was a foamy brutalism to the way Browne chose to show his clothes in their single fabric and modular layering. And it was utterly beautiful.
Scene setting: The pace was measured and intense; one by one, models trod slowly around a large, square catwalk wearing exaggerated platform brogues. To a broken orchestral soundtrack, a second set came wearing flat, rigid pattern pieces followed by a third rotation of Browne’s signature surreal tailoring. In the centre of the catwalk lay neat piles of thick grey felt cut into the patterns used in the atelier.
Best in show: A shrunken sleeve frock-coat, worn with shorts over trousers, continued the buttoned-up look. The silhouette was fitted and neat but with a playful, architectural quality; the sides of jackets and trousers could be buttoned open to create new shapes. Dismiss Browne at your peril – these suits are sharp, snappy and special.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Curvature, cantilevers and cashmere: Mumbai-based designer Rooshad Shroff on his new furniture collection
Rooshad Shroff’s new furniture collection Balance is a masterclass in structural luxury
By Emily Wright Published
-
What are art clubs? Inside the heady world of groups offering exclusive access to the industry
Private clubs and museum patron groups offer insider knowledge and the chance for deeper art world engagement
By Annabel Keenan Published
-
The 10 emerging American Midwest architects you need to know
We profile 10 emerging American Midwest architects shaking up the world of architecture - in their territory, and beyond
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Why seersucker is integral to Thom Browne’s design DNA
The brand's ‘Seersucker season' S/S 2020 offering celebrates the preppy puckered fabric, which first attracted its founder in his youth
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated