Mood board: The opening looks at Thom Browne’s A/W 2017 show all looked identical at first glance. However, the full body suits – like those worn by matadors – impeccably fitted to the body and cut in delicate herringbone wool, were adorned with hundreds of covered buttons that created a different line on each. Suits were exquisitely precise and incredibly elegant. There was a foamy brutalism to the way Browne chose to show his clothes in their single fabric and modular layering. And it was utterly beautiful.
Scene setting: The pace was measured and intense; one by one, models trod slowly around a large, square catwalk wearing exaggerated platform brogues. To a broken orchestral soundtrack, a second set came wearing flat, rigid pattern pieces followed by a third rotation of Browne’s signature surreal tailoring. In the centre of the catwalk lay neat piles of thick grey felt cut into the patterns used in the atelier.
Best in show: A shrunken sleeve frock-coat, worn with shorts over trousers, continued the buttoned-up look. The silhouette was fitted and neat but with a playful, architectural quality; the sides of jackets and trousers could be buttoned open to create new shapes. Dismiss Browne at your peril – these suits are sharp, snappy and special.
-
Year in review: Barbie to Snoop Dogg, the starriest design collaborations of 2024Design collabs went stellar as Snoop Dogg & Dr Dre served up Gin & Juice with Ini Archibong; Michael Bennett showcased lighting with Gantri; and Barbie turned Kartell furniture pink
-
RollAway Hospitality describe their all-electric RV as a luxurious suite on wheelsA Californian start-up combines zero emission tech with expert packaging to create a designer camping experience
-
‘I’m always looking for something weird’: Palace’s Lev Tanju on his new role as creative director for Fila+Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss sits down with Lev Tanju as the Palace founder brings his unabashed love of clothes to a new role as creative director of Fila+
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Why seersucker is integral to Thom Browne’s design DNAThe brand's ‘Seersucker season' S/S 2020 offering celebrates the preppy puckered fabric, which first attracted its founder in his youth
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
