Mood board: The mood for next season is overwhelmingly driven by the passion of artists. In a time of uncertainty, designers are creating a softer look that is more poet than punk. Madame Woo and daughter Katie Chung were inspired by the look and sprit of Oscar Wilde, embodied in the iconic photographs taken shortly after his arrival in New York in 1882 by Napoleon Sarony. The research then turned naturally to other artistic and intellectual movements in the late 19th and early 20th century. Wilde’s pomp was here but with the attitude and textiles of the forward-thinking Bloomsbury set. A/W 2017 is definitely a call to poetic action.
Finishing touches: The clothes were a mix of twisted wardrobe staples; generous double-sided felt coats, long exaggerated cuffs on raffish knits, velvet frock coats and flares in deep purple. Shirting had ruffled plackets and large, high collars. Peignoir coats and slippers brought Wilde and his fin de siècle coterie into the beginning of our own century.
Sound bite: ‘This season is about the young poet today – we had a lot of inspiration from The Petit Palais exhibition on Oscar Wilde. We really believe that there are boys like that living today, who are that poetic and romantic. Artistic, but living in the here and now. We wanted to capture a dreamy sophistication which is street at the same time,’ said Katie Chung.
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
