Mood board: Never one to shy away from socio-political narratives or cultural commentary in his collections, Hussein Chalayan looked to the banlieue for his A/W 2018 menswear inspiration (that being the troubled and expansive suburbs of Paris, which house impoverished and ghettoised immigrant communities). With fractured groups and broken narratives as his focal point, Chalayan presented looks with elements spliced from his Bourdon Street shop, like a tailored jacket with a sporty hood-like panel or loose trousers and a zip-up jacket with frayed and torn layers. His garments posses floating identities, made up of multiple references. North African blanket weaves, created from wool and cashmere and imagined in blues, purples and reds, were woven to evoke the aerial view of the Parisian banlieue, a visual marker of communities left behind.
Best in show: Chalayan’s tailoring is always a high point and for A/W 2018 the designer finished a pinstripe suit with pieces of gold foil: part protective armour, part a glimpse of the rich spoils of those that live in Paris’ city centre, away from the troubled upbringings and violence experienced by those raised in its sprawling suburbs.
Finishing touches: There was a strong resilience to Chalayan’s catwalk looks. Constructed in military shades of khaki, biscuit brown and naval blue, these were pieces that fought back. He topped off his designs with stompy Dr Martens boots, in green, maroon, navy and black.
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
