Raf Simons A/W 2018
Mood board: The cautionary tale of Christiane F, a teenager that took to the streets of 1970s West Berlin, riddled by drug use and addiction, was the main inspiration behind Raf Simons’ latest creations. Entitled ‘Youth in Motion’, the collection not only delved into the dark, rebellious and utilitarian aspects of late 70s/early 80s counter culture, it also wove in text excerpts from Cookie Mueller and Glenn O’Brien’s 1980s play Drugs, which appeared as graphics that were scattered across the garments.
Scene setting: Set on a raised stage adorned with wilting flower arrangements, platters piled with pears, pomegranates, charcuterie, cheese and wedges of chocolates, and a spread of empty bottles and glasses filled with wine and poised for the taking, the opulent backdrop to Simons’ standing room-only presentation was akin to a Flemish still-life tableau brought to life. Juxtaposed by reverberating techno music and club-worthy laser lighting that pierced through the room as models proceeded out in mid-century couture house fashion, the vibrant pastiche of high and low, past and present was an exciting encapsulation of Simons’ brand in totality.
Team work: In addition to sloped shouldered jackets, deconstructed knitwear and tapered trousers embellished with patches printed with abbreviations of narcotic substances like 'LSD' and 'XTC', Simons incorporated imagery and titles from Uli Edel’s 1981 film Christiane F on to t-shirts and garments to mark the persistent relevance that those same troubles have today. In recognition of the taboos still surrounding drugs and addiction, part of the proceeds from this collection will be donated to organisations supporting those recovering from addiction.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
A new Oxford Street pop-up celebrates IKEA's blue bags
IKEA's iconic blue bag gets its own pop-up concept store, the 'Hus of Frakta'.
By Smilian Cibic Published
-
Audemars Piguet and Kaws have created the Royal Oak Concept watch we didn't know we needed
The Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' is slick wrist-worn art
By Thor Svaboe Published
-
A friendly rivalry coloured by kinship: Wendy Maruyama and Tom Loeser on their two-artist show
'I wanted to make furniture, just not traditional furniture, but weird furniture,' says Wendy Maruyama on ‘Colorama’, a two-artist show presented at design gallery Superhouse (until 11 January 2025)
By Gregory Han Published
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons rove the digital realm for S/S 2021
‘Technology is a part of humanity itself’ said the duo of their live streamed S/S 2021 show
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Explore the history of Austrian fashion through 250 objects in Vienna
Vienna's Museum of Applied Arts presents a major exhibition exploring the Austrian fashion scene
By Max Feldman Published
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated