Kenzo A/W 2018

Scene setting: The staging of the A/W18 collection explored the long-standing friendship between Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Guests watched a live performance inspired by Leon’s sister’s wedding in Los Angeles circa 1998. Leon was then at the height of his experimental fashion phase and chose to bleach his hair blond, much to his mother’s dismay. The mise-en-scène saw actors playing out the events surrounding his reveal. In one, an actor playing Leon, stands pouting in a bathroom mirror. Across the set, his mother cooks wildly in the kitchen preparing a celebratory meal. Lim flits into the family home and is welcomed with open arms. The actors were directed by Karim Bel Kacem and Partel Olivia and filmed live. They put the ‘show’ in fashion show.

Mood board: For A/W18, the duo looked to their enduring love of cinema. The collection was inspired by the various on-screen characters who weren’t easy to define. The merging of heritage values and modern looks came from the twisting of classics and mashing prints; technical fabric padded V-neck vests were pulled over clashing jumpers and roll-necks. A dark yellow zip-up nylon jacket had floral embroidery and was paired with heavy wool double faced trousers.

Best in show: Across the collections there has been a chopping up of menswear staples. Lanvin put the pockets from military jackets onto formal tailoring shapes. Thom Browne fused down jacket function with sartorial style. Fendi placed varsity bomber sleeves on a classic trench. Here a boxier top exaggerated the skinny leg. Bomber jackets were lengthened. A wool herringbone coat had nylon blouson sleeves.